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Feb 6, 2017

New Shirt Project, a Claire McCardell Pattern, and MORE!

First things first, readers.

Michael requested I make him a leopard-print shirt using the leopard cotton voile I picked up last week, and that's just what he's getting.  I cut most of my fabric today and have the fronts, yokes (inner and outer), and back all attached.  I think it's going to be a very eye-catching garment!  (The cut of the shirt will be traditional.)

Front (with placket)

Back, with center pleat

Meanwhile, for a long time I've been wanting to replace the collar on the wool plaid "shacket" I made two years ago.

I love the shacket, but the collar stand was always just a little too stiff.  So today I finally removed the collar and stand and made new ones.  Here's the old collar and stand:

You can see that I used a stiff woven interfacing on the inside stand.  It was too inflexible.

The new collar is made with the cotton bird-print fabric I picked up last week.  I used a much softer woven interfacing (purchased at Metro Textiles) on the inside collar stand this time around.  The bird print is also a softer fabric than the brown cotton I had used originally.

Here it is on the shirt.  I like it much better.

Here it is on me.

Meanwhile, there's a new pattern in my life, a 1958 McCall's Claire McCardell playsuit.  Very excited to receive it and (hopefully) whip it up this spring.  Notice that the shorts, jacket, and top are all cut on the bias.  (The skirt's cut on the straight grain.)

Readers, there's much more to tell: I'm back in school at FIT.  This semester I'm taking a men's patternmaking class and a more advanced draping class.  Classes started last week and I can tell they're going to keep me challenged.

And that's it,  More adventures on the way...

Have a great day, everybody!


  1. Don't you just love that you can sew and create your own clothes?!! Great save on that beautiful flannel shirt! I am lazy when it comes to alterations, but I think I would have given in to save this shirt too! I love the little shorts and top set in that pattern and would love to see that made up for the spring! (I want one too!) Absolutely adorable!

  2. Wow ... how meticulous! I love your shacket ... such stitching quality ... you matched up the plaid so well ... choosing so fabulously where the dominant stripes of the plaid would be too ... the fabrics are great ... the fit is awesome ... and you went back to improve/redo the interfacing and picked such a more upbeat inner fabric ... Congratulations on your diligence and excellence with your sewing success ! I've been reading/seeing your sewing for years with great admiration. Lynda from Toronto

  3. Ditto to the above and thanks for showing the Claire McCardell pattern pieces. Very helpful.
    Vancouver Barbara

    1. Oh yes my friend. VERRRRRRRY helpful.
      I am looking forward to the new shirt for Michael almost more than the McCardell.

  4. Love you shacket and glad you were able to replace the collar and collar stand. I agree the bird print fabric goes better.

  5. I swear, you're the HGTV of sewing makeovers. You make it look SO easy. Please don't tell me you can accomplish it all in 30 minutes.

  6. I love the redo. I have a few things in a basket that I spent a good deal of time on that I don't wear because of some fiddly annoyance in how I made it. thanks for reminding me IT CAN BE DONE. As for the shirt, too bad Danceteria isn't open any longer, right? If you love John Waters (and who doesn't), watch his commencement address to RISD in 2015. He was amazing. And, of course, that is when my oldest graduated. Digging into my last box of fun from Fabric Mart. I got this cool sueded scuba knit in a pale silvery buff color which is up next in my queue. Ciao bello!

  7. congratulations on finding a Claire McCardell pattern! Where did you find it? I have looked occasionally on Ebay, but no luck. She was a genius. Thanks for showing the pattern pieces.

  8. Etsy, but Claire McCardell wasn't mentioned in the listing; I just happened to stumble upon it.

  9. Your great photo shoot comes in a close second to this fabulous shirt. Great look for Michael. Fun

  10. Might I just ask what are you going to do with the playsuit? I'm not a long time reader of yours, so maybe I missed the part where you parade down Broadway in women's clothing, maybe that's your thing... sigh I'm just jealous that you are stealing these patterns from us gals!!
    Love the shirt redo xx


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