Sewing with Linen and Liberty of London

Long-time readers of this blog will know that I'm a big fan of combining contrasting fabrics in my shirt projects, especially coordinating prints (or stripes with prints).

Sometimes it's easy to find two print fabrics that work well together and sometimes it isn't.  I looked high and low for a summery print that would work well with this red and white striped linen.  I decided to use a Liberty of London floral fabric scrap I had in my stash.  If you look closely you'll notice that the reds don't match perfectly, but from a distance they work well together.

To make my shirt, I used a pattern that was new to me, Vogue 9617, a fitted shirt pattern from the 1970s.  I don't remember exactly, but I suspect I picked it up on eBay in a pattern lot I purchased.

I like my summer shirts a little loose.  I also like a slightly longer sleeve.  Today most short sleeve shirts end at mid bicep; I prefer mine to end just above the elbow. 

While there wasn't anything remarkable about the pattern or the process, here are two shirtmaking tips I think I've shared before but I'll share again:

1) When I use a pattern that is new to me, I always start by trimming the seam allowances of the  collar, collar stand, and neckline pieces (fronts and back yoke) in half: from 5/8" to approximately 1/4" or 1/3".  This makes sewing these pieces together and attaching the collar to the neckline so much easier.  (It's a tip I learned from an old Margaret Islander video.)  You'll also save a bit of fabric.

2) After you've sewn your collar seams together, make sure you press them open with a point presser/clapper.  Your collar edges should look clean and sharp.  Naturally, when you turn, press, and topstitch your collar, you want to make sure that there's 1/16" of the top collar showing on the underside.  You never want to see the undercollar showing from the top.  Same deal for pocket flaps (see top photo).

I wasn't going to add pockets to this shirt at all, but in the end I decided to add two, plus pocket flaps.   It's harder to make two pockets because they not only have to look good alone, they also have to match each other perfectly (and be sewn on symmetrically). 

I love this cool, linen-and-Liberty shirt, but I think Michael's going to get the most wear out of it.  It fits him better than it does me.  His shoulders are broader and he's a few inches taller, pus he already owns the matching shorts!

You can see a few more photos of the shirt over at the Mood Sewing Network here.

In closing, do you have any secrets to share when it comes to pattern mixing or do you just follow your intuition like I do?

Have a great day, everybody!

Pretty, intersecting flat-felled seams.