Look For the Silver Lining

Friends, there's almost always something on the garments I sew that I would do differently.

Rarely, however, do I realize what the something is before I've even finished my project!  In the case of my still-not-finished 70's sheet blazer, it's the lining.



I picked up this silver poly lining back when I was making my Marc Jacobs daisy taffeta ensemble -- seems like years ago, doesn't it? -- and only used a bit of it to line the sleeves after I chose the much better quality yellow nylon lining later on.





Since I had a lot of the silver lining left over, I decided I'd use it for my sheet blazer.  In retrospect, I wish I'd chosen something more substantial.  For my linen blazer last summer, I used Bemberg poly-rayon lining (below) and it had a much nicer hand while still being very lightweight.



I know many people like silk linings, but I've always heard that silk is hot.  One of the challenges of my silver poly lining is that it's so thin that it's difficult to slip stitch, and most of the lining has to be attached by hand with slip stitches.  Thankfully it hasn't been difficult to machine-sew with, though of course I had to adjust the tension of my Kenmore (my 158.141 in the table) and even the pressure.

There are already a few snags where I inadvertently pulled a thread I shouldn't have.





There's also some minor puckering on the front darts.



I still have to stitch in the sleeve lining and then the major work on the jacket is done.  I also have to decide whether I want to do the buttonholes myself or bring them to Jonathan Embroidery and have them do it.

As you can see, my jacket has a half-lining (and two sleeves).  Thank you, Michael, for being a human coatrack.



I thought a half lining would be easier than a full lining but it has turned out to be harder as there are more exposed seams that need finishing.  I just serged the bottom edge of the back lining, which hangs free; I'd originally planned to use the selvage, but it was ugly.







I find jacket linings like these to be the hardest thing to do, since you can't just bag them; they have to fit neatly in the garment without pulling anywhere, which can affect the drape of the jacket.  Let's not even talk about shoulder pads, which have to be tacked-in upside down while the garment is inside out.

I had hoped to have all this done by tomorrow but it certainly won't have buttons or buttonholes yet.  I guess I'll have to wear something else in the Easter Parade!

In closing, what do you like to line your garments with -- silk, polyester....mink?

Happy Weekend, everybody!