Male Pattern Boldness is proud to be the world's most popular men's sewing blog!

Sep 15, 2015

Remaking a Coat Pattern from Six Years Ago, et al.

Readers, I don't know how I managed it, but six years ago, with little more than two months' sewing experience under my belt, I made Burda 7780 (above).  It turned out pretty nice, especially from a distance.

I made it with cheap fabric, however, and it didn't really hold up well over the years; I finally said good-bye to it this summer.  But since I could really use a raincoat-type topper, I'm making Burda 7780 again.  This time I'm using a coated cotton plaid in a rather dark palette.

It wasn't till I started cutting my fabric, however, that I was reminded that this pattern's front and back pieces are slightly curved.  As a result, the back looks like this:

The plaid matches (I used a walking foot with my Singer 201) but there's an unmistakable "V" shape at the center.  That's OK, right?

I've cut all my pieces out (plaid takes a lot time to cut, I was reminded) and interfaced what needs interfacing.  I hope to start putting things together tomorrow (plus double welt pockets; sigh).

In other news, last week I completed a shirt muslin for a client, using a coarse vintage cotton floral I found at the flea market years ago.  It's a pretty print but not very soft.

For the first time, I created a pattern by copying an already-made garment.  I used the method David Coffin recommends in his book, Shirtmaking.  It involves putting pins through the edges of the garment pieces and connecting the pin pricks.

We'll see how it fits in a few weeks.

On an unrelated not, this weekend I draped Michael in blue and patterned shirting I may use to make a shirt for him.  He's a "Light Summer."

On Sunday, we did my friend Johanna's colors.  We say she's an "Autumn."

And that's it!

In closing, have you ever copied a ready-to-wear garment using David Coffin's method or another? What were the results like?

Have a great day, everybody!

Willy sure knows how to charm Grandma!


  1. Her joy is infectious.

    He's such a scamp!

  2. "It turned out pretty nice, especially from a distance." You just described about a third of all the things I've made.

    Seriously, I think your coat looked good. And the new one: great.

    I'm interested in the method you're using to copy the RTW shirt. I tried to copy a RTW shirt last weekend using a different method. It a much simpler shirt than the one you're copying--no collar, no buttons-- but before I even cut the fabric out, it was obvious it was doomed to be a failure, so I gave it up midway. I'd still like to copy it, though.

    I love the photo of your mom and Willy.

  3. To soften many fabrics, Peggy Sagers recommends washing the fabric with a bottle of Coke added to the water, no soap. She does this with denim all the time. It is worth a try as the shirt is a test garment anyway. I do love the fabric, though.

  4. Is it possible that the fabric is upside down in the cotton floral shirt?

    1. I was thinking the same thing.


    2. You're right. It is.

  5. That V- shape on plaids is perfectly fine. Thats how it is, and should be :)

  6. Love the V, love your mum's smile, love all the colour draping. I've copied quite a few things both that way, and far more slap-dash ways as well. Mostly absolutely fine, any cock-ups were entirely my own!

  7. Great picture of your mom and Willy!

    I think your plaid matching is spot-on. With a curve, there is no avoiding the "v". I checked my husband's jackets and they all have a v if they are plaid. They are very nice made-to-measure, so you are in good company.

  8. The coat looks great and can't wait to see how the shirt turns out. What type of paper are you using to trace it?

  9. Video demo of the shirt- (and pants-) copying process I use, plus a bunch of Q/A:
    I've always found it quite accurate, but of course, no better than the shirt you start with, so more fitting may be involved with the copy. Good luck!

  10. OMG, the man! I'm posting after the MAN!
    (deep breath)
    I have used DPC's technique to copy a lot of stuff. The pins and the grid help to prevent pulling the item out of alignment (and accidentally making it smaller/wider). There are parts that are harder to do, but that connect the dots tech works pretty well. You do want to walk the seams, but yup.
    Nice photo of your pup and Mom!

    1. SJ, you now have some sort of "gotta get to know her" aura.

      Your fame is from the same vein as Andy Cohen, or Liza Gibbons, and though it pains me to admit it, I couldn't be more jealous of you!

  11. Your Burda from 6 six years ago is quite impressive. I love it. Sorry it didn't hold up but I know you are going to make another fabulous one out of that plaid fabric.

  12. In my world, a coat that lasts 6 years has held up well. Love the style. The plaid should be great.

    I once tried the copy method, but was stumped by darts.

    The photo of your mom and Willy is priceless!

  13. I copied a shirt and made changes in the design to delightful results. Experience is a helper--and I added wide seam allowances so I could fix any problems. The shirt has held up very well and is still one of my favorites, since I went to the trouble to finish all seams very well. It feels like a shirt that paid off for all the work. Wish I'd had better fabric, but next time will make a point of using better fabric.

  14. Now...THAT is a great photo of your Mom!!

  15. Your making this coat in plaid makes me think immediately of a genuine Mackintosh my father wore for years. I think it was his favorite garment.

  16. Love your sweet dog with his grandma. He sure is a charmer. Love the fabric for Michael. Can't wait to see the finished product. Sewing is definitely in your blood because there is no way I could ever make a coat with so little experience.

  17. Like your coat, but have to say I'm glad you made it a different color...the pattern image is ...well, too Castiel (Supernatural) ...or Columbo!


Related Posts with Thumbnails