Readers, I forgot. It's been twenty-five years since the Eighties, and I failed to remember how BIG everything fit back then. Blame Gianni Versace, Rei Kawakubo, Claude Montana, Madonna, I don't know.
Only two months ago I wrote about that classic Eighties wardrobe staple, the oversized jacket, so what made me think my pattern, Simplicity 7358 from 1983, was going to be any different? I guess I was in denial.
Long story short, I muslined Version 2 (shown in blue), using that huge piece of taupe polyester that was such a good color for me but such nasty fabric. When I ironed it it literally off-gassed and I had to open the balcony door to keep from suffocating.
All I cut were the two fronts, the back, and the sleeve. It all went together easily; it's a very well-drafted pattern and the sleeves attach open, like a shirt. But I must say, Wow: when I put it on I was instantly transported back to the Eighties, when a silhouette like this was normal:
This pattern will require some big changes, primarily in the width of the chest (I'd already take roughly 2" off the length) and the depth of those mega-sleeves.
Then I remembered that I own other, more contemporary men's jacket patterns. In fact, I have in my stash Burda 7617, which is in-print and has a modern, slim look. So guess what? I made a muslin of that too, using the same toxic taupe.
Notice too how much higher the Burda (right) armhole is cut, and how much narrower the shoulder is:
Why reinvent the wheel by making changes to the Simplicity pattern when I have the Burda pattern that fits the way I want?
Behold the Burda muslin (the jacket will be lined and worn over clothes, so it can't be super-super-snug):
Much better, right?
My plan is to add elements I like from the Simplicity pattern to the basic design of the Burda jacket. I want this to be more like a classic flight jacket than whatever that Burda jacket, with its zippered pockets and super-wide cuffs, is supposed to be.
I'm sure this worked for some (big and tall) people, but like I said yesterday, when you're on the petite side, oversized clothing makes you look liliputian. And while small women are cute; small men are targets.
OK, I'm off to muslin some collars and cuffs -- cross your fingers.
Have a great day, everybody!
PS - If pics seem smaller than usual, you can click on them to see them larger. Weird stuff going on between Picasa and Google + formats.