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Feb 25, 2013

A THIRD Jacket Muslin - Stretch & Sew 1794



So how do you feel about raglan sleeves?  Anything at all?

Even though I find them more difficult to resize, I like raglan sleeve seams and the soft-shouldered look they create.  That's why, despite having already made two muslins for my spring jacket project, I decided to make one more using the pattern up top, Stretch & Sew 1794.  You've probably seen these vintage Stretch & Sew patterns around -- they're quite easy to find and always cheap, especially on Etsy.  I don't think they make them anymore; does anybody know this for sure? 

A quick review: I'd initially planned to make a bomber style jacket.  Last week I muslined two patterns: Simplicity 7358, which came out ginormous, and contemporary Burda 7617, OK, but a little boxy.  Stretch & Sew 1794 has been sitting in my pattern stash for years.  It dates from 1985, but it's a very classic windbreaker style and the sizing is normal.  You have to trace your size since the pattern is printed on both sides of the heavy pattern paper.  I made the little windbreaker collar but it seemed boring.



I took it off and added the hood from Burda 7617.  I also added a zipper shield (for lack of a better term: that flap that covers the zipper on a lot of men's outerwear).  And that's where things stand today. 







The fit is extremely comfortable (Though I made the sleeves 1" too short).  It will be hemmed at the bottom, but roughly the length you see here.  I like it more than the boxy Burda (shown below with plaid shirt).





I've never given jackets like these much thought but there are many, many different styles.  Last week I peeked into a nearby men's clothing store, Steve Alan, and tried on the dark gray jacket below, which retails for more than $400 USD, despite being made in China.  It's much longer than the jackets I had in mind, but super-cute.



It has a hood, but the hood is removable.  The collar edges are flush with the center zipper, but the zipper shield goes all the way to the top of the collar.  I could try to copy that too.  Thankfully, I have finally exhausted my supply of that stinky, off-gassing taupe polyester.  You won't have to see that again and I won't have to smell it.  

Finally, five months after I ran into a patch of wet cement outside my apartment building and badly twisted my ankle, I finally returned to running yesterday. It felt great.



And that's all the latest from MPB, Inc.  I'm all muslined out.

Happy Monday, everybody! 

21 comments:

  1. I think the raglan sleeve looks more flattering than the Burda - the boxier cut does nothing for most men, imho. And I think the flap that covers the zipper is often referred to as a storm flap - at least in ski and/or rain jackets. I like the latest version with the hood. Do you plan to stay with this one or are there more muslins in the future? Good riddance to the polyester - at least you were able to use it for something, right?

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  2. I forgot to mention that the latest issue of Threads has a list of the Mood bloggers but I was surprised that they failed to mention you! I was disappointed.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I LUV Threads Magazine, and share in your disappointment.

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    2. That's because I'm not official till March.

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    3. Yes, but this issue of Threads was the May issue!

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  3. I love raglan sleeves. Love, love, love. Happy for you that you're running again. Take it easy!

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  4. I love the Stretch n Sew jacket. The most flattering yet. But then I'm a huge fan of raglan sleeves, particularly in jackets. They are more comfortable and layer over sweaters more easily.

    I didn't realize you were a runner. Don't know how I missed that. I am a lapsed runner and plan to start again as soon as the sidewalks are safe here.

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  5. My mother learned (to her intense embarrassment) that if you don't reinforce the place where all the seams meet on raglan sleeves, they tend to rip out. Hence why there are little square box seams on the underside of all of mine (there's a square of bias tape on the inside covering the seam joins!)

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    Replies
    1. Not to mention that all the Stretch & Sew seam allowances are just 1/4". Not much to work with!

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  6. Current Stretch & Sew catalog:
    http://www.gmidesign.com/stretch/catalog.html

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    Replies
    1. Thanks, Marsha! It looks like with the exception of a couple of unisex patterns (fleece jacket, shorts), they've eliminated the men's patterns.

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  7. The raglan sleeve jacket is far more flattering, and it looks more comfortable. The Burda pattern seems as though it would work better
    for a lightweight spring jacket. A thought, but it might be worth it
    to lengthen the jacket just an inch or two to cover the bottom of a shirt
    or sweater. The hood is a good detail.

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  8. I agree. I also prefer them in knitting patterns as well, instead of worked in one piece where they have no shape. Good luck with your running.

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  9. i love a raglan sleeve, they're so comfortable! also i have trouble fitting my shoulders and a raglan sleeve makes all those problems go away.

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  10. Raglan sleeves rule! I have wide hips and narrow shoulders. If I fit a garment to my hips, it needs drastic adjustments across the chest and shoulders - so much so that the overall shape is often ruined. Raglan sleeves magically solve the problem. I now sew almost exclusively with raglan, dolman and kimono sleeves.

    Come to think of it, I think Cathy would look good in a kimono.

    Peter, what do you do with all your muslins?

    Spud from Down Under

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    Replies
    1. I keep most of them for future reference. I don't have that many -- yet.

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    2. It used to drive me crazy having muslins taking up valuable storage space. I have never once referred back to one after a project was finished. Now I cut them up and use them as interfacing

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  11. I have mixed feelings about the raglan sleeve, but you look adorable. Really, I think you can wear anything.

    My favorite part about this post is your sweetie absorbed with his laptop.

    Who took the photos?

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  12. I love raglan sleeves! I know you were intending to make a bomber jacket but this has a vintage look to it as well and if you add all the right details I'm sure it'll look quite similar to your original inspiration.

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  13. Why not weigh in? I have to go against the crowd and say that I prefer the boxy Burda jacket. I just like a more defined shoulder. Whichever you choose, I look forward to following along.

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