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Apr 17, 2014

Lace Shirt, DAY 3 -- Creating a Scalloped Hem

I decided to go for the scalloped shirt back hem, an idea I mentioned in yesterday's post.

As you know the shirt fronts, which are lace, are trimmed to the scalloped edge of the lace.  Here's how the lace appears uncut for just this purpose (not necessarily for a hem of course).  I love that the design incorporates this option.

You can see below (sort of) that the back of the shirt, which I subsequently hemmed roughly 1/2", looks too long compared to the scalloped lace front.

So here's what I did:

First, I lined up a piece of my remaining lace with my back edge, and traced the scallop shapes (on the wrong side of the shirting), paying particular attention to the places where the lace ends and the cotton shirting begins.  I wanted the transition to look smooth.

Next, I cut a facing strip roughly 2" wide, tracing the slight curve of my original back pattern piece.  I used gingham because I didn't have enough light gray shirting.

I pinned the facing to the shirt bottom, right sides together, and stitched my scallops.  I turned in the side edges so that no raw edges would be visible when I turned the facing to the inside.  (These will get stitched to the side seams invisibly.)

Next, I trimmed as close to the scallops as I could, clipping where necessary.

I now turned the facing to the inside of the shirt.  With the aid of a point presser and an iron, I carefully shaped each scallop, making sure a scant 1/8" of the gray shirting was visible from the wrong side of the shirt, guaranteeing that no gingham will peek out the bottom. 

The right side now looked like this:

I edgestitched the scallops to keep them crisp-looking and to hold the facing in place.

I wasn't sure how to finish the top edge of the facing.  I could fold the raw edge under and handstitch it in place, but the thick horizontal seam would show through the shirt when I ironed it.

In the end, I decided to add a line of topstitching parallel to the original edgestitching, and to carefully trim the facing up to the stitch line.  Since the scallop edges are on the bias, they don't fray.

There you have it: a lovely scalloped hem. 

And the facing is decorative too!

This is a technique you can use on any garment -- on a hem, neckline, or sleeve edge.

Have you ever made a scalloped hem?  How did you do it?

Have a great day, everybody!

Apr 16, 2014

Lace Shirt, DAY 2 + When You Have to Do It Over

My shirt is coming along slowly.

Apr 14, 2014

Lace Shirt, DAY 1 + New Pattern!

Today I got started on my lace shirt.

Apr 12, 2014

Saturday Book Break + Demolition!

Readers, do you ever wonder what happens to the people whose homes get demolished as neighborhoods gentrify?

Apr 11, 2014

Moving On From Shirts...

Readers, it seems like it's been all about shirts here at MPB lately. 

Apr 10, 2014

Laying Out My Lace

I am officially lace-obsessed.

Apr 9, 2014

FIT Class # 11 -- Almost Finished With Our Shirt!

Last night's class was devoted primarily to closing up the sides of our shirt.

Apr 8, 2014

Real Men Don't Wear Lace

Or do they?

Apr 6, 2014

More Comic Book Bathos + Michael Wears the Shirt -- BETTER THAN I DO!

I can't deny it: Michael looks better in this purple gingham/floral shirt than I do.  Is it his skin tone?  His blue eyes?  His grayish hair?  Therefore I have decided to let him have it.  How frustrating!

Apr 5, 2014

Flea Market Fun on a Sunny Saturday!

So many fun things at the flea market this morning (on an amazingly April-like April day: sunny and mid-50's).

Apr 4, 2014

Adding a Double-Welt Pocket to My Latest Shirt

I mentioned that in my last menswear sewing class, Professor B. showed a small group of us how to make a double-welt opening, presumably for a pocket.  (I described the method in Wednesday's post; the sample is above.)

Apr 3, 2014

Attaching My Shirt Sleeve PICS + New Shirt Muslin!

So here's my latest muslin (no buttons yet, unhemmed), using the pattern Professor B. altered for me on Tuesday.  I cut the torso out of my purple gingham, and the sleeves, collar, and cuffs out of the tiny floral.

Apr 2, 2014

FIT Class #10 -- Breakthrough!

Sometimes you don't get what you want in life -- but sometimes you do!

Mar 31, 2014

Arrival of the Vintage Stetson Bowler!

Is there anything more exciting than a package in the mail?

Mar 30, 2014

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