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Feb 15, 2013

Final Vogue Muslin + How I Gained More Than Twenty Pounds



Friends, I've tweaked and tweaked and tweaked some more.  I now think I have a muslin of Vogue 8889 that's good enough for me to transfer the changes to my pattern.  But first -- about that weight gain:

Thankfully I'm not talking about body fat, though I have thickened a bit in the waist since my flu and resulting exercise hiatus.  I'm talking FABRIC weight!

This week I received a HUGE Fed Ex box full of fabric from MPB reader Babe (think Babe Ruth), who's moving and subsequently trimming the size of his pattern stash.  The box he sent weighed more than 23 lbs. -- that's a lot of fabric (plus a gorgeous pair of Gingher shears).







Among the many highlights: elegant men's shirting in solid colors perfect for a "summer" -- grays, blues, pinks, and cocoa brown.











Marvelous tropical prints right out of a Dorothy Lamour movie:









Classic checks:





Let me publicly say, THANK YOU, BABE!  I think it's time to buy more storage boxes, ASAP.

Meanwhile, on the Vogue 8889 shirt muslin front (and back)...

If the back fullness bothers me I can add two long vertical fish-eye darts.  The ugly armhole is just lazy stitching.

Here's the condensed version of the changes I've made:

1) I let out the side and side back seams at the waist and hips.

2) On the long sleeve side, I narrowed the shoulder roughly 1" for a better shoulder fit.

3) I raised the armhole roughly 1/2" and narrowed the width of the armpit (taken from the side front and side back pieces) and narrowed the corresponding sleeve width.

I'll also shorten the long sleeve another inch or two.  A few pattern issues: while the collar fits the stand, the stand (corresponding to a size 34") was too long for the approximately 14 1/2" neckline it needed to attach to.  Hence this:



Notice (below) that if you match the (size 34") collar stand notch (where my fingers are) with the neckline notch of the right front piece, the "center front" lines do not line up.



Finally, not that it matters much, but the notches on the yoke don't match up with the left and right shoulder notches. 



Tomorrow I'll show you the changes I made to my pattern pieces.  Most are subtle (see below) but hopefully they'll be sufficient to make the pattern fit my build better.



And that's all for now from MPB headquarters.

Happy Friday, everybody!

17 comments:

  1. What a haul!!! Even Willy was impressed (that's sayin' something).

    Looking forward to your pattern magic.

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  2. Wow, I think you owe Babe. The shirt is looking much better. I'm anxious to see some of that fabric made up, especially the tropical prints. I'm very partial to those types of prints.

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  3. Wow! I'm kind of jealous of your fabric gift, especially the red Hawaiian ukulele and guitar print. My hubby plays guitar and I've made him several "guitar shirts" in similar fabrics. I know you will make lovely things out of all these gorgeous fabrics!

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  4. sweet! it couldn't have happened to a more deserving guy...

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  5. Does that lovely gift of fabric count as "fabric stash"?? ;-) Congrat's!!

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  6. Looking good, I can't wait to hear all of the nitty gritty details of your pattern adjustments (this pattern is one of a few on their way to me now!). Any advice for tailoring/adjusting around the armhole, for when you do or do not want to change the size of the armhole? If these are covered in "Tailoring: The Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket" it is also en route, so I'd be more than happy to wait until it arrives and find out myself. It just seems like it would be one of the more delicate/tricky adjustments out there.

    Matthew

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  7. I've been following along with your shirt fitting. I can't helped but feel....not sure of the right word....disappointed, disillusioned , horrified at how poorly produced this pattern is. There isn't anything much more basic to a man's wardrobe than a shirt, so it's distressing to see that it has to be practically redrafted by the home sewer. It's a pretty sad state of affairs when the neck can't be buttoned and have the collar fit properly. Maybe the pattern company could sell more patterns if it weren't a total exercise in frustration. I know you'll make it work in the end, but anyone else would have "wadded" this one.

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    1. I agree with you on this one, you just naturally expect better from Vogue! Everything is so slip shod today. On an off note, I was looking at the machines Singer is making nowadays and it made me so appreciative of my vintage 99-13! I could easily lift those new plastic machines with one hand!

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  8. How amazing....imagine how surprised I am to discover that Vogue threw men under the bus!

    I am shocked! Shocked! Shocked!

    No wonder the products are so reduced in price. Perhaps the discovery is not so secret - Vogue really has a poor opinion of men.

    What a bother. Oh well...back to making some patterns for myself.

    Peter, I recommend you do the same to avoid bitter disapointment again.

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  9. I love the big box of fabric you received! I can't wait to see some checked shirts posted in the future.

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  10. Can't wait to see what you make out of that gorgeous fabric. I love the red fabric with the guitars. Amazing design and colors.

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  11. So, vintage patterns continue to be better.

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  12. Wow, what a grand fabric acquisition! Babe is too sweet! And the skirt is really looking great! I can't believe the drafting mistakes, though-- how annoying! Those could really throw off a more inexperienced sewer.

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  13. What a lucky stash! The new muslin looks great.

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  14. I am in love with the pink tropical print, it is to die for!

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  15. Have you tried Silhouette Patterns recently? Peggy has added a mans shirt and jeans pattern. I haven't tried them yet for my sons but she pays great attention to details and having pattern pieces match where they should. I love reading your blog and seeing all the awesome items you make.

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