Oct 26, 2010
Some classic styles shouldn't be tampered with.
Readers, I thought a lot about embellishing my velveteen jacket, a work in progress. I still think about it. But the more I look at jackets like these, the more I want my jacket to be simple.
Can you blame me?
I did try lining the inside of the pocket flap with the pebbled faux leather I showed you yesterday, but it was too slippery and I wasn't able to stitch the two pieces together properly.
There's an issue with my fabric I haven't mentioned: spandex.
Why, oh why, wise readers, are so many fabrics woven with spandex today? I know: it improves fit, makes clothes cling and mold and bend and all those good things.
I hate gratuitous spandex. I really do. I hate it in denim and I hate it in cotton velveteen. It just causes headaches in a garment like this with lots of seams and structure.
Anyway, I'm making good progress despite the scourge of stretch.
I laundered my fabric and cut out my pattern pieces.
Then I started stitching. Since this jacket won't be lined, I want the inside to look clean. Even though the fabric doesn't fray I decided to serge my seam allowances before topstitching them to one side. I take off barely 1/8".
Then I finger press the seam to the side I want to to topstitch (The velveteen doesn't require ironing). Here's the left front with one line of topstitching (blue thread).
And with the second line (copper thread).
Next I work on my pockets. Nothing works as well as white school glue to get those sides to hold until you're ready to stitch. A little goes a long way and really holds.
My biggest concern is that the two pockets be perfectly matched. I generally make the first and then use that as the template for the second, making sure the edges line up but being careful not to get glue on the right side of the fabric (it will come out in the wash, however).
Next I place them on my jacket front, again, making sure the two sides are symmetrical.
I pin them in place carefully, and stitch them on.
I try not to handle the fabric excessively. No stretching, no tugging.
Because there's spandex in this, and it's a slightly pillowy fabric, I try to let the feed dogs do the work. Both my Singers (15-91 and Spartan) handle velveteen beautifully without any need for special presser feet and without leaving indelible marks in the short nap. I tried experimenting with my Viking zigzagger and the feed dogs had trouble with it.
So here's what I have so far:
I've also done the back (center, sides, and top yoke).
With a slightly stretchy velveteen like this one (the stretch is in the width, not the length), I'm sometimes not sure where I might need interfacing and what sort to use. The cuffs, waistband, and collar will definitely need something to stabilize the fabric. I may use fusible or not. The waistband in particular must not stretch.
I may also interface the extended facing, which lies under the buttons and button holes and extends upward to the collar, ending at the shoulder. I will likely add a narrow back neck facing as well, which will make the collar easier to attach. A lot of this is trial and error.
Friends, that's it. Much yet to do.
Fans of monkey fur, sequins, and ball fringe will find themselves disappointed no doubt. I just wasn't feeling it. Perhaps you'll enjoy these unique creations:
Readers of refined taste, do you embellish your clothes? Do you own a Bedazzler?
We have no secrets here, you know.
Do you think fringed Western jackets belong in the big city? (Did you ever see Midnight Cowboy? It didn't turn out so good for him.)
Happy Tuesday, everybody!
Labels: mens western jacket