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Jun 20, 2010

Peter's first self-drafted MAN pants



Happy Father's Day to all the fathers out there and their admirers. 

So I finished the jeans-style pants I made with my self-drafted pants pattern.  Last week I'd bought about three yards of a $2/yd. gray cotton weave (not really a twill) with a bit of stretch in it.

Using elements from a men's jeans Kwik Sew pattern I made pants with last month, I added fly, back patch pockets, front pockets, belt loops, etc.  I topstitched with plain old orange polyester thread.

The stretch in the fabric caused me all kinds of headaches.  My self-drafted pattern was sized for a fabric with no stretch, and I had to do a lot of stitching and ripping in the crotch, sides...basically everywhere, to make these fit well.  It's a minor miracle these came out looking as good as they do because at one point yesterday I'd resigned myself to making shorts.

Look closely at the weave.





It's not your usual twill but kind of resembles grosgrain ribbon.  Any insights, readers?  My knowledge of fabric is like, cheap or expensive.

The front, where I now have a fly, is an eensy bit wider than it might be; I think after I wash and dry them again they'll tighten up a bit all over.   Maybe I just need to drink more beer.



Frankly, these bear very little resemblance to my self-drafted pattern.  Once they were cut and front pockets attached, I just fit them to my body as best I could and threw seam allowances out the window.   Stitching up the inseam in particular, I had to cut a lot of fabric away.  The back pieces on a pair of jeans go every which way -- up and down, diagonally, sideways -- when they're stitched to the front pieces, and stretch complicates the fitting.  I did cut the fabric parallel to the grain so I don't get it.

The best part of the fit, imo, is the seat.  This is the last close up of my butt I'll post this month, promise!



So there you have it.  Very comfy jeans-style pants I drafted myself with a little help from Kwik Sew 2123 and lots of luck.  I'm SO over stretch fabrics, by the way -- enough.

Here's an album of project pics if you're so inclined, with a few gratuitous puppy shots thrown in.

Happy Sunday everybody, and I'll see you bright and early on the morrow!

28 comments:

  1. They look great! You tickled my fancy with the grey and orange combo - it is one of my favorite color schemes.
    I think you probably also had to take out a lot because yours have a closer fit to a skinny pant than a traditional mens' pant. Just a thought.

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  2. Congrats Peter, those look great! You've inspired me to learn to draft, or rather your butt has inspired me to draft.

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  3. The jeans look fantastic... How long have you been sewing?#!! You are definitely channelling a tailor or an engineer in a past life. Did you use a twin needle for the topstitching?

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  4. You have done an AWESOME job! So impressed.

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  5. For some reason I am doubtful that that's the last butt closeup we'll see this month - not that most of us mind - those pants look great! Pants are next up on my radar, I think. I've made skirts, dresses, and blouses. Time to head south.

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  6. It looks like faille. They look great. You are certainly an intrepid sewist Peter! If you don't push the envelope you don't advance. Wonderful topstitching; certainly better than my newer Viking can do. Which of your vintage machines was it done on?

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  7. They look great!! I love the look of the fabric. I am in the middle of tackling some shorts (in stretch cotton sateen) and it's a bit of a nightmare. Apparently I underestimated the size of my ass and the extra fabric I would need in the back section to cover it.

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  8. Nancy, I made these on my Singer 15-91, an old (early 50's) straight-stitcher. The straight stitch foot is very easy to control for topstitching, I don't use guides or special special feet. I serged most the seams that needed finishing, like the edges of the pockets.

    Thanks, all. Lisette, even though I took out a lot of fabric, they're looser than those slim women's pants I made earlier in the week from basically the same pattern (albeit without yoke or pockets).

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  9. Your butt … er … I mean the PANTS look great!! Stretch wovens can be a PITA to work with but I can see that didn't slow you down at all. I find it appropriate and amusing that you used that sheet for your pocket bags. ;-)

    Boring sewing for me today — cutting up an old puppy-chewed quilt to make throw pillows. I've been putting this off for so long because home dec usually makes my eyes glaze over.

    Speaking of putting off … what's the scoop on Cathy's swimsuit for the Fire Island trip?

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  10. Bravo!!!! Love the yellow top stitching on the gray, too. Care to share your gluteal exercise regimen with the rest of us?

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  11. I agree with Nancy K - that definitely looks like faille to me. I'm making a skirt out of a navy cotton and silk (why? this is like combining cashmere and linen - is it to make me feel better?)fabric that has the exact same ridges and not only is it hell on wheels to sew on, but taking anything out leaves ginormous HOLES!!! Thank goodness I'm lining it in navy so they won't show (at least not to the naked eye from 'personal space' distance).

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  12. Nice job, love the fabric choice and orange thread. Having just finished my first pair of very simple pants, I must say you did an awesome job with yours, especially with all the details. Very impressive!

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  13. Yay! You added name/url option back to comments! :)

    Amazing pants. Wish I had pants that fit that well in the seat. (No time to draft any for a while!)

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  14. Wow!! Fantastic! I made some Kwik Sew Pants (and I am a easy to fit RTW lower half) and I must have taken off four inches and completely refit them - I couldn't believe the trouble I had too - but I love the fit of yours!

    BTW, you have a great *** - looking forward to seeing more of it (oops) Did I say that out loud - I meant your sewing:)

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  15. Great fit in the butt! I agree with Pammie.

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  16. Great pants! You are so talented!

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  17. I like my men in pants. I know, that's very straight and midwestern of me.

    They look good. I like the orange on gray. The roomy crotch doesn't look wrong. (Dude, you wore harem pants a couple of days ago.) No, I mean the roominess looks okay on this style of pants.

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  18. Nice bootie, Peter! And great topstitching... these days Topstitching and I are sworn enemies (I'm working on my own pair of jeans):)

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  19. Peter, you look sensational! There is nothing, and I mean nothing, like a pair of Good Butt Pants. You did an amazing job and I love the orange topstitching. Congratulations!

    Your doggie is so adorable. Happy Father's Day!

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  20. Well, on the fabric I was going to guess ottoman, but if it has stretch, I guess faille is the better guess.

    I think your jeans fit well, and look good. I have to say the orange topstitching makes them look better than white or black stitching would have done.

    So, well done. Bravo!

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  21. They look great, Peter! I often find when I make pants, my bum looks awesome and the front looks a bit sad in comparison. Oh well...

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  22. I actually like the material minus the stretch. With stretch mats you have to make the pattern smaller to compensate for the amount of stretch, The greater the stretch the smaller the pattern.

    By the way, your butt makes those pants look good.

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  23. Very, Very, Very nice looking pants. One would think you experienced such a headache from making these. It was well worth it. Not many people can say they've self drafted and sewn their own pants. You are quite impressive (wink)!

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  24. I vote for bengaline fabric based on the grosgrain like weave and weight being suitable for pants.

    You are a freaking sewing savant, dude.

    The butt is the part that give me a world of hurt but I am heartened to hear that you didn't get this great fit on the first go.

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  25. These look great,especially from behind! Love the grey and orange combo.

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  26. Ooh I'm slow to comment, but I'm sure you won't mind another compliment... what a great-fitting pair of pants! Jeans are supposed to make your butt look great, from my understanding, that's the whole point :) Love the topstitching!

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  27. If I had your butt, I'd make pants every day. Nice job.

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