After taking a basic Patternmaking class at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) last semester, I wasn't sure what I wanted to do this semester.
Originally I'd planned to continue with patternmaking, but I had a change of heart. For one thing, as much as I enjoyed my class and liked my professor, I didn't feel like I was learning skills I could apply easily to a person, as opposed to a standard dressform. It also seemed like a lot of the drafting we were doing -- creating a variety of collars, sleeves, yokes, etc. -- were things I could learn on my own with a standard patternmaking text like the Helen Joseph Armstrong book, Patternmaking for Fashion Design, I already own.
The other reason -- and it's related -- is that I've begun experimenting with Kenneth King's moulage method of pattern drafting (a CD book) and I find it both practical and, once you get the hang of it (as with anything, there's a learning curve) accurate. (You can find Kenneth King's pattern drafting CD books for sale here.) You use real people's measurements to create a moulage (or sloper) and use the sloper to create patterns for garments. I'd rather invest my time in this method, which I think will serve me better in the long run.
So I decided to take Ladies Tailoring instead. Now why ladies and not men's tailoring? For the last two semesters, there haven't been enough people interested (aka, registered) for FIT to offer the men's tailoring class, which is sad. A lot of tailoring techniques are applicable to both men's and women's garments though, and I do make women's tailored garments from time to time.
I attended my first class last Wednesday evening and I thoroughly enjoyed it. This beginning-level class is focused on skirts, and we'll be creating them with a variety of pockets, waistbands, linings, etc. Last week, the professor, a professional tailor who hails from the Dominican Republic (and who's a real sweetheart), demonstrated, among other other things, tailor tacks, something I have no experience in whatsoever. They're used to transfer information accurately from one layer of fabric to another. It seemed awfully painstaking to me, but hey, we're learning old-school tailoring methods. We'll also be doing a lot of hand basting (something I largely avoid), shaping wool with steam, stitching by hand, and more.
|After marking them with tailor tacks, we're to hand baste the darts.|
Below is the type of skirt we'll be working on initially, a simple straight skirt with front pleats, two side pockets, back darts, waistband with hook-and-eye closure, half lining, and hand-picked back zipper.
I'm excited about the class and hope you are too as I plan to share what I've learned. I do make tailored garments so I think improving my tailoring skills is a good investment, don't you?
Now I just need to master those tailor tacks....
Have a great day, everybody!