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Feb 16, 2016

A Glen Plaid Flannel Shirt and More!



Time for another shirt project -- or two!

I'm making a shirt for a client out of a sumptuous gray Glen plaid cotton flannel that's as soft as cashmere.  The inside collar and and cuffs are lined with black cotton sateen.  I'm using Simplicity 8541 as my base -- a very straightforward shirt pattern originally printed in 1988.



A few construction details:

For the first time ever, to help stabilize my bias-cut outer back yoke, I added a little lightweight fusible interfacing to the edges -- it really helped to prevent stretching when I attached it to the inside yoke and, wedged in between, the back of the shirt.  Because the fusible is so lightweight, it adds very little bulk.  In the second pic, you can see how the bias-cut yoke looks next to the straight-cut back.





In front, the plaid lines up both vertically and horizontally.  I opted not to add a button placket.  I recently learned that a placket-free shirt front is called a French front, and is considered dressier (and more European).



I went the extra mile and lined up the plaid on my sleeve plackets.  This was a bit challenging because this flannel doesn't hold a crease and has a lot of loft.  Still, the plackets came out nicely.





Here are my two cuffs.  The pattern calls for straight rectangles but I opted for a rounded outside edge, which I think looks nicer.  As you can see, the inside cuff is black cotton sateen.





When I use vintage patterns, I often change the collar to make it look contemporary.  On this pattern, I shortened the collar considerably.









All that remains is to add buttonholes and buttons, hem the shirt, and shape the collar a little more.  This fabric had its challenges (mainly related to its loft and difficulty holding a crease) but I love the results.

Meanwhile, today I also started a second flannel shirt for myself, a grayish-blue and black symmetrical plaid.



I'm using Butterick 4575, which dates from the mid-70's.  I've used it a few times before, most recently for my color-blocked corduroy shirt.   It's one of the most fitted shirt patterns I own.



This time, I've added a front button placket.



I hope to get these shirts finished in the next few days before I move on to....you'll just have to come back to find out!

Have a great day, everybody!

19 comments:

  1. What a handsome shirt! I've been reading your blog for a year or so now and always enjoy your fabric choices and projects.

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  2. I LOVE that second pattern. I have it but haven't made it up yet. My usband looks great in the longer, pointy collar of the 70s but he is uber tall with a long neck and it all sort of works.
    What I find interesting about mens shirts is how subtle it all is. Collar and cuff shapes, fullness of sleeve, subtle fit of bod, it's all magnified into significance.

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    1. Yes, Maryanne, you are correct: it's all in the small details when it comes to (most) menswear.

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  3. Those sleeve packets are divine.

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  4. Lovely fabric and shirts.
    You have endless energy. Shirts, sewing class, dogs, and everything else you do.

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  5. Matching the sleeve plackets..... it makes my head spin just to think about it! Amazing.

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  6. More beautiful shirts from the atelier Peter. Love both of them. The placket looks fabulous.

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  7. Absolutely love those sleeve plackets!

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  8. Making custom shirts for clients - wow! - it's fantastic how far you come. And it's been delightful watching from the sidelines.

    Spud.

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  9. I love the cuff photos. I should make a pinterest page of nothing but those cuff photos.
    I am relieved to know that there's a swanky name for my sloppy placket free shirts. That and the camp collar I favor.
    You make shirts, I make pajamas....;)

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  10. So chic! Beautiful work, as always. I love the grey fabric you've used.

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  11. Wow! You did a wonderful job on your client's shirt! I love the contrast of the collar band and the cuffs!

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  12. Great job once again, mate...and so hard to make everything matching perfectly ! See U

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  13. This is a truly elegant shirt - stroke of genius for the yoke! Think carefully about whether you want to put a placket for the buttons on your second shirt - I think it would look so much dressier without; it would take away any chance of misrepresenting it as a lumberjack shirt.

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  14. Many years ago I made a shirt from a Burda magazine pattern from a similar fabric to your first one here. It was asymmetrical with a standing collar.I used red studs instead of regular buttons and it really 'made' it for me.

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