Time for another shirt project -- or two!
I'm making a shirt for a client out of a sumptuous gray Glen plaid cotton flannel that's as soft as cashmere. The inside collar and and cuffs are lined with black cotton sateen. I'm using Simplicity 8541 as my base -- a very straightforward shirt pattern originally printed in 1988.
A few construction details:
For the first time ever, to help stabilize my bias-cut outer back yoke, I added a little lightweight fusible interfacing to the edges -- it really helped to prevent stretching when I attached it to the inside yoke and, wedged in between, the back of the shirt. Because the fusible is so lightweight, it adds very little bulk. In the second pic, you can see how the bias-cut yoke looks next to the straight-cut back.
In front, the plaid lines up both vertically and horizontally. I opted not to add a button placket. I recently learned that a placket-free shirt front is called a French front, and is considered dressier (and more European).
I went the extra mile and lined up the plaid on my sleeve plackets. This was a bit challenging because this flannel doesn't hold a crease and has a lot of loft. Still, the plackets came out nicely.
Here are my two cuffs. The pattern calls for straight rectangles but I opted for a rounded outside edge, which I think looks nicer. As you can see, the inside cuff is black cotton sateen.
When I use vintage patterns, I often change the collar to make it look contemporary. On this pattern, I shortened the collar considerably.
All that remains is to add buttonholes and buttons, hem the shirt, and shape the collar a little more. This fabric had its challenges (mainly related to its loft and difficulty holding a crease) but I love the results.
Meanwhile, today I also started a second flannel shirt for myself, a grayish-blue and black symmetrical plaid.
I'm using Butterick 4575, which dates from the mid-70's. I've used it a few times before, most recently for my color-blocked corduroy shirt. It's one of the most fitted shirt patterns I own.
This time, I've added a front button placket.
I hope to get these shirts finished in the next few days before I move on to....you'll just have to come back to find out!
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!