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May 18, 2015

Finishing Touches on the Blazer + New Fabric!

Friends, I am happy to report that the blazer is finished -- well, almost finished: I still need to insert the sleeve lining.

But since some blazers don't even have sleeve lining, I feel like my work is basically done.

You'll get to see the completed garment tomorrow.

(Btw, I'm still getting used to the new dimensions of my blog.  Those photos look huge.)

A blazer, sport coat, sports jacket or whatever you want to call this garment requires a lot of hand sewing, particularly to attach the lining.  You can't bag a lining in a structured blazer like this.  Or at least, I can't.   I'm not the greatest hand sewer but I do think I'm getting better at it: I used to dread it, now I dread it somewhat less.

The inside pocket (below) looks acceptable though, honestly,  I'm glad it's inside.  Did I mention that I used poly satin for the lining?  It was surprisingly easy to work with and frayed much less than rayon Bemberg.  It feels sturdier too, though, alas, it's not going to breathe like rayon.

I toyed with the idea of having my buttonholes done at Jonathan Embroidery but the timing was wrong so I made them myself with my Singer buttonholer.  I think they look fine and, frankly, on such a bold fabric, who's going to notice the buttonholes?  As you can see in the top photo, I used plain semi-transparent plastic buttons for the blazer.  They look pretty good and since I already had them in my stash, the price was right!

In other news, I'm already thinking about next projects.  The same day I purchased my oversized hibiscus print fabric I also picked up a 100% cotton blue-and-off-white striped knit, some cement gray linen, and enough deep red cotton twill to create a nautical-inspired outfit.  In fact, that's what I thought I'd be sewing this month till that hibiscus print blazer took over my life.

I'm not quite sure what I'll do with the gray linen, but I'm pretty sure the striped knit will be a boat-neck pullover, though the idea sounds a little dull.  What else can you do with a striped knit like this (in menswear) -- leggings?

In closing, I do hope you'll tune in tomorrow to see Michael model his new jacket.  I think you'll be surprised how not like a beach umbrella or shower curtain this garment looks.  (That's my hope, anyway.)

Have a great day, everybody!


  1. That's rather rapid work I must say. I can't tell from the photos, but did you kine the coat entirely? If not, then a half or quarter lining would help with breathability issues. Even if it's fully lined it's easy to convert this into a buggy-back lining.

    As you say the sleeve buttonholes will probably disappear into the print, but perhaps it was worth having a go at hand-sewn holes. On a casual blazer two spaced holes is classic for the 1960s American look (and two fewer buttonholes to sweat over). It's worth practising buttonholing because once the skill is mastered (and it is fairly quickly mastered) you are never at loss or have to rely on a machine or other people.

    What part of the garment is in photo 2?

    1. Photo 2 is where the back lining (a buggy lining as you say; I'll post photos of the inside later on) attaches to the upper collar.

  2. Which Singer buttonholer did you use -- 121795? The holes look good! That linen looks fantastic and would also make a great Summer jacket, perhaps a one-button without lapels.

    1. I actually used both the buttonholer with the templates (for the front buttonholes) and the 121793 model (for the sleeve buttonholes, which are dummy buttonholes as I didn't cut them open).

    2. Hey Mouse,

      It's later that next year, when are you going to review your Bernina 117K??

      Testy (as Peter sometimes calls me - why, I'll never know)

    3. Peter, ah -- very nice job. I have the template buttonholer but not the older 12179x model. You just sold me on one! Singer really should pay you a commission.

      Teste (See what I did? :)) -- oh, the pressure! I haven't done much with it (up to my ears in Elnas and learning the clarinet) but it is one sweet machine. And its attachments could be an exhibit in an industrial design museum. I snagged a Bernina 640-2-11 semi-industrial that is sweeeeet, mounted to a 1/3 hp Consew clutch. Its straight stitch could pass for those produced by a dedicated straight stitch machine -- one test of the quality of a zig-zag. If you can find one, grab it; they're not common.

  3. I can only say....I cannot wait to see it completed...Love love the fabric!

  4. Can't wait to see the completed blazer! Your hand sewing looks fantastic and the buttonholes do to. You continue to inspire me to use different fabrics for traditional clothing pieces and I always love your results.

  5. Could a striped linen make horizontally oriented man-pris, or something equally unexpected? Peter, your "beach wear" photo shoots are ripe for some visually punctuated pants. Will this year be "Cape time" again, or will you summer in all-new-to-your-reader's environs?

  6. I just love how we sewists think alike :) I dream of my next project before I finish my present project. My mind never stops...and neither does my sewing

  7. Please, can we call that color "dove grey"? Cause "cement".....

  8. A boat-neck striped t-shirt may seem boring, but I'll bet you'll wear it to a frazzle.
    I'm so looking forward to seeing the blazer!! I can't believe how good at tailoring you have become in such a short!


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