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Dec 20, 2014

The (Slightly) Shortened Shacket + New Fabric, New Patterns



Sometimes you need the distance of a few days to realize that a completed garment could benefit from a tweak.



After looking at the photos of me in my wool plaid shacket and wearing it around town last week, I realized it needed work.  Worn as an overshirt, it reached down a little longer than I liked, and worn inside my pants there was a bit too much fabric to tuck in comfortably.  So I did what any of you would have done: I shortened it. 



I think this is an improvement and more flattering on a short guy like me.





In other news, MPB reader Michael C. has once again gifted me vintage patterns from his seemingly bottomless stash.

Burda 8143 (below) is such an 80's classic but I'm not sure it has aged well.  What do you think: gem or atrocity?





It reminds me of this outfit modeled decades ago in Vogue by Janice Dickinson. I believe Princess Stephanie of Monaco also wore something similar in a music video.



Michael also sent me this Butterick Retro pattern.  I love me a good peplum.



I also have some new fabric: organic white denim.  Being the somewhat slobby person I am, I tend to  avoid white anything, but I'm hoping with the aid of a little bleach I can keep whatever I make (jeans?) looking bright, or at least whitish.



And that's it!  I hope those of you immersed in holiday sewing are enjoying high productivity.

Have a great day, everybody!

(There was only one Princess Stephanie -- thank God.)

37 comments:

  1. I like the shorter shacket much better. As for the Burda pattern - atrocity. I can't imagine wearing that much fabric and trying to get in/out of a car! Plus, I just don't think it's very attractive. "I love me" a good peplum ???

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  2. Love your shacket – long or short. You did a beautiful job of sewing/matching. Perfect.
    As for Burda 8143, I bought it in 2006. I don't think it was an 80s pattern. I have made several versions – in wool, linen and cotton and it continues to remain my favourite jacket pattern. Any time, I wear one of them, I get a lot of compliments. Atrocity is in the eye of the beholder.
    Vancouver Barbara

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    1. Wow -- I was off by 20 years! But it DOES seem to have an 80's vibe. ;)

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  3. The alteration is nice, good work!

    The Burda pattern has lots of ease built in, good for comfort, more suitable for a non-willowly type, covet and would definitely use the pants pattern for pajamas and casual pants x 100.

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  4. I'm probably disagreeing with many but I prefer the original, longer version. The long shirttail hem helped to balance the horizontal lines of the pockets, yoke, collar, and even the plaid itself as well as balance the top-heavy bulk. The newer, more horizontal hem makes the outershirt (I'm still not used to 'shacket') and its wearer look somewhat wider. But it's a minor change and if the new length makes it more practical and wearable, then all the better. It still looks great on you. And even if alterations aren't your favorite thing to do, you do them well.

    I'm not sure what to make of the Burda pattern (literally and figuratively). At first glance I thought it was a bear costume.

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    1. "...a bear costume."; oh, Mouse, be still my heart.

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    2. Take care of that heart, Testosterone! :)

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  5. I made that Burda pattern about 10 years ago (I still have it). I made it in a lovely light weight wool (from Paron, if I recall correctly) I made it with one pocket that was embellished with a piece of vintage kimono. I originally did the gathering on the other side, but later remove it. I made a closure at the neckline with beads and a piece pf mother of pearl that I found in a bead store down in Princeton. I still wear the jacket to this day. That pattern really has some great potential.

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  6. Definitely a classic garment. I do like it better in the shorter version. You are so talented!

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  7. Love the fabric colour/pattern on you! Love the shorter version as well. The longer version did look like you were borrowing someone's garment.

    Burda pattern-hmm, not the most stunning but if you can see it as an Issey Miyake-like look, it just might suit a wonderful print or solid fabric. Yes, I personally would find the garments too much for daily wear but maybe for beachcombing?

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  8. New Capcha process noted, BTW. A check box before the Capcha code entry.

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  9. Burda 8143 - I swear those pants have just been reinvented by Marci (or Katherine) Tilton relatively recently... YES!!! Vogue 8172. Not precisely the same, but pretty darned close. Check it out: http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8712-products-13659.php?page_id=4450

    I like the slightly shortened version. Subtle but better.

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    Replies
    1. Definitely has to have been an inspiration for the Tilton sisters! My thought immediately.

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    2. Mine too - the Burda pattern it is not bad if done in a light airy cotton or linen

      the color and fabric on the pattern looks much too heavy for the design
      the shacket I actually liked both versions hut the shorter version is more flattering on you

      cynthia

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    3. I also thought of Marci Tilton's pants pattern! I love everything about the Burda pattern and will buy one when I find it.

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  10. Hi Peter - I liked the longer version better but it was indeed too long to tuck in comfortably. Not a great fan of the Burda pattern - all that fabric would drown someone my height (1.59m)! Cheers. Anne-Marie

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  11. A lot of 80's patterns haven't worn all that well. I don't like these over sized patterns; they just aren't flattering on me. It's better than the giant shoulder pad look and probably any one who likes the Lagenlook would go for this. Just not my idea of chic.

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  12. I understand from those who wear white jeans that carpet cleaner will be your new friend.

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  13. I have to say it was fun wearing that oversized stuff in the 80s, though I wouldn't have worn the jacket and pants together. That pattern is kind of a rip-off of the Japanese stuff from the era, and I think people are better off sticking with the Miyake patterns of that style, like the coat you made recently.At this age, it's a little to "art teacher chic" for me.

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  14. Peter, Your shacket is great and a much better fit as compared to the Burda pattern, LOL. The nice thing about making your own garments is that you can tweek it as you like : ). The Burda pattern is interesting. It looks really comfortable. Those pants could be great shirtless (for a guy or bikini top for a gal) strolling along the beach. That top maybe for sleeping in or with leggins/jeggins/tights. I think the pieces themselves would work better apart. How they put the pieces together with how the models hair is styled for the photo doesn't really do the garments justice. It looks like shes suited up to go liberate mankind from an alien : )

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  15. Hahaha. I acquired that Burda cuz I liked the collar. It always had a Mao communist/guerilla chic vibe to me.
    You never know when some detail will work later. I do like seeing the "for/agin" commentary. People are fabulously different. Vive la differance

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    1. I do like the collar, also. Funny, that's the one thing I noticed, and had to go back and take a second look after the bear costume comment. I have used bits and pieces of different patterns, as well.

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  16. I like the tweaked version of your shacket! Though I am not sure there was anything wrong before; however the sewist has to feel comfortable with the final version.

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  17. I love the new length. You always want to see more leg length than torso length, proportionately. I have the same need to shorten everything from shoulder to hip.

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  18. Love the shacket, and I do like the shorter length better, personally. As someone who wears a lot of white and other light colors and also babysits three toddlers, I get 99.999% of biological (esp food-based type) stains out with hydrogen peroxide. I mix it with some clear liquid soap and baking soda and smear it on the stain and let soak for several hours if it's a really bad one. then throw in the wash. Can't do this with wool or silk, but cotton...not a problem! Joan

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  19. great shacket, and I think the new length is good, and the new curve of the hem is what I do and I'm significantly stouter than yourself.

    That Burda is no doubt adored by fans of Miyake and/or Lagenlook, but no matter how fine and draping the fabric it just makes me look like a potato. Mind you I eyed the pants for pjs, even if they might be hideous on me

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  20. I like both the longer and shorter versions so it's a win either way in my eyes.

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  21. Again, your shirt looks great, waiting to see if you make another one for Mike.

    The Burda pattern, I have it, it's not from the 80's. I have made up the top with a modified bottom much like the Tilton pattern on Vogue, but I went for more standard pull on trousers that weren't so baggy. It made so you didn't look like you were wearing a tent.

    I did it navy blue silk charmeuse. It came out beautiful. It's works great if you plan on spending the day at home. It is like wearing beautiful pjs that is if you make the top and bottom as is.

    The jacket to it, is actually kinda nice to wear out somewhere, you get noticed depending on the fabric you choose.... Just as your reader Barbara from Vancouver commented.

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  22. Small alteration but a big impact, it's a great looking garment Peter.

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  23. The new length on the shirt-jacket (sorry, "shacket" is just too cutsie!) is good.

    That Burda pattern reminds me of some of Marcie Tilton's patterns of the last several years. I'd say the pieces are good, but make in at least one size smaller, and do not wear both at the same time.

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  24. Short, you? Who knew? You look like a towering marvel of achievement in all pics I've seen. How tall are you Peter?

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  25. Shacket looks great. Princess Stephanie is still alive. I looked it up to make sure. She's not all that much older than me.

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  26. I think that Burda pattern is an atrocity as pictured on the pattern envelope, but in a drapey flowing fabric could be quite lovely. I also like the shorter length on your shacket. Good decision there!

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  27. Peter are you doing anything special for Christmas and New Years? (party outfit for new years eve?)

    Are you doing anything special on your blog here for the holiday celebration almost upon us?

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  28. Peter, Rit Whitener & Brightener is wonderful for keeping things away from dingy.

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  29. I allow myself one comment per post, and this link to a interesting jacket ribbing tech seemed more important than 'swackets'. http://tailororfailure.blogspot.com/2014/12/harrington-in-detail-part-3.html

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