I picked up my mail yesterday and discovered an envelope containing Simplicity 9893 (above), a gift from MPB reader Michael C. As you know, I've been toying with the idea of making myself another coat and have all but abandoned the idea of the dressy balmacaan overcoat from the Japanese coat pattern book. I know I'd get more use out of something sportier.
I had recently cut Burda 3402, which I purchased a few months ago. I'm guessing it dates from the 1990's. Initially, it looked promising.
As I looked at the line drawings more closely and inspected the pattern pieces, however, I realized that the cut is very dated -- way too wide in the shoulders (with deep facings along the back) and narrowing down toward the hips.
Simplicity 9893, on the other hand, is more classic, with a Western-style front and back yoke detail that is subtle enough not to scream rodeo. The pattern dates from 2001.
Today I made a muslin of it. The fit, as I expected, is boxy, but will look much better made up in a stiffer fabric and with a lining (maybe something quilted).
The collar -- which is just one piece, like a bowling shirt -- can be easily switched out for something with a shaped band for more oomph. Pocket possibilities are endless; I'm certainly not limited to the ones from the pattern.
An inner drawstring (or back waistband with elastic inserted) could give the jacket a shape more like the Barbour below:
Epaulets and a band collar and it looks more like this:
Done up in melton wool, it resembles this Filson jacket I got Michael for his last birthday:
A few other variations:
With American men's outerwear patterns, you simply have to be able to look beyond the pattern envelope and be willing to tweak. Hardware, pockets, and other details can turn a basic style into something more eye-catching.
Do you agree that this muslin, if not amazing as-is, is a decent base upon which to make a nice looking lined winter jacket? A fabric possibility (from my stash) is this heavy cotton-nylon plaid:
Or the liver-colored melton I bought a couple of weeks ago:
I'm open to suggestions.
Have a great day, everybody!