Friends, I am totally not a welt pocket expert but I did have moderate success today on the four pockets I made for my flower-power sheet jacket.
I'm not one of those bloggers who learns it on Tuesday and teaches it on Wednesday -- not that there's anything wrong with that provided the person is a good instructor -- so I will only tell you what helped me make these pockets: practice and working out logically what I was actually trying to do. Also looking at RTW jacket pockets and examining how they are finished.
Welts are kind of like little facings that are folded back, leaving an extended edge, or "lip" exposed, if that makes sense. It helped me to remember that if the rectangle I was cutting was 6" x 1/2", then the welts (I'm talking double welts here) must be 1/4" wide when folded back, so that two add up to 1/2". Too narrow and you'll have exposed space; too wide and the welts will overlap. Is that clear? Even knowing this, do you think my welts were perfect? They were not, but they're good enough for me right now.
There are many, many good tutorials out there, and welt pockets are explained in just about every sewing book ever written. If welt pockets are part of your sewing pattern, then the pattern instructions will probably provide their own directions. There's not one right way to make these; you have to find a way that makes sense to you.
You can attach the pocket bag on top of the welts and pull the whole thing through your hole, or you can attach the pocket bag later. The pocket bag may be one piece that's folded in half or two separate pieces sewn together, or have a lapped facing (so you don't see the lining through the opening). What made mine complex is that, with the exception of the inside breast pocket, all my pockets were parallelograms rather than neat rectangles.
To add insult to injury, since the pocket is attached on top of a dart, the pattern piece looks like this:
It's not simply a question of tracing a 1/2" x 6" rectangle onto the front; the long sides are parallel but the top line is shorter than the bottom one and the two short edges are not parallel with each other (I think that would be rhombus.).
One more complication is that these pockets are on the diagonal and have flaps. The good news is that these flaps will cover any imperfections in the welts themselves.
I traced and stitched my two long parallel lines from the wrong side (I used to make the mistake of stitching around all four sides), and then, using those stitch lines as guides, attached first my welts, then atop the upper welt, my flap, and then atop the lower welt, the front of my pocket bag. After cutting and pulling the welts, flap, and front pocket bag through -- and of course, stitching down the little triangles at either end -- I then stitched on the back of my pocket bag (as per the Simplicity instructions).
Another way to do this is to attach both bags to their respective welt (upper and lower) and pull them both through the hole. I tried this on the second pocket but it wasn't much of a time saver, alas.
The most important thing is that the welts not be wider than 1/2". But there are many other piddly things to think about. Since I fear that half of you are bored silly and the other half utterly lost, I'll let it go at that.
My top breast pocket has an outer welt that must be slip stitched along the edges. You'll find one like it on most men's blazers. Why? Who knows!
My final pocket was the easiest: the inside breast pocket. This is made without adding welts. The "lips" are formed from folding back the cut edges of the pocket bag. What makes this pocket challenging is that half of it falls on the polyester lining, which must be interfaced before cutting.
That is all for today. The eagle-eyed among you may be wondering why one of my pocket flaps has tiny black marks, like dirt. Here's the answer:
What looks like rust is merely the accumulated crud of nearly four months of ironing without cleaning the face plate. It's way past time to clean that mess up before it really ruins something.
Friends, when's the last time you cleaned your iron? If your reflection in the bottom looks like the shroud of Turin, it may be time to take a little gentle abrasive -- I'm sure people have suggestions on what to use; spit won't cut it, I tried -- and clean that baby up.
Have a great day, everybody!
|All that work and you can't even SEE my pockets!|