Friends, this week I drafted my own pattern for a double-breasted, shawl-collared, raglan-sleeved, princess-seamed ladies jacket.
Say that ten times fast!
Our assignment for this coming Monday is to sew up a muslin (right side only) and today I (nearly) finished mine (up top). I haven't decided how I want to finish the sleeve edge yet and, since this is just the right side, I need to replace those buttons (just pinned on for the photo) with buttonholes.
Overall I'm happy with it good considering how much is going on. We were required to include the raglan sleeve and the shawl collar; everything else was up to me. In addition to making it double-breasted and using princess seams, I added a pocket on the side front panel, an inverted pleat in the sleeve with contrast underpleat, and a shaped hem in front. My contrast fabric is a vintage cotton floral fabric with a chintz-like glossy finish. I used it for the shawl collar, the facings, the underpleat, and the pocket trim.
Last Monday, our professor posted photos of garments with raglan sleeves (for inspiration) and showed us how to draft the raglan sleeve using our original sleeve sloper and torso sloper. She also taught us how to draft a shawl collar. After her lectures, we have to then draft our own versions using our own slopers.
I wouldn't say the drafting is hard, but there are a lot of steps involved and lots of room for error if you aren't paying close attention. The draft becomes the template for a pattern of our own design incorporating the shawl collar and raglan sleeve.
The inspiration for my inverted pleated sleeve was this illustration from Patternmaking For Fashion Design by Helen Armstrong. (I own the 3rd Edition.)
More jacket muslin pics:
I'm happy with my jacket overall. What took me longest was to create all the individual pattern pieces and make sure they all have seam allowances, notches, and are correctly labeled. I'll review them all before Monday to make sure.
And that's it. Next week we're drafting a notched-collar jacket with dolman sleeve. Only two more weeks for class, alas.
BTW, my professor was very happy with my dropped shoulder assignment from last week. And, naturally when she's happy, I'm happy.
Have a great day, everybody!
|This should hang better on the the dressform it was drafted for -- a 12. Mine is a PGM 8.|