Last week I decided to take another summer class at Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT).
My draping class ended last Monday; this new class, Flat Pattern Design II, began the following morning. It's a day class, 9 am - 12:45 pm, and meets three days a week through July 26th. Since it's a short class, a lot is being squeezed into a very short period. Today was our third class and we've already drafted a bodice sloper, a fitted torso sloper (which includes the hip), and long pants. Tomorrow we'll finish a tent-shaped bodice and work on a structured drop shoulder sleeve. We'll be drafting a variety of different collars and sleeves (along with pants), working up to a final project of our own design.
A number of you have asked whether I prefer draping over flat patternmaking. Even though you start at different points, you end up using both methods as you design. You need draping skills to adjust a flat-patterned bodice that doesn't fit perfectly. (You're making your corrections directly to the muslin, and then transferring them back to the paper pattern.) Conversely, you may have draped a bodice but will then use flat patternmaking methods to draft a sleeve or, certainly, a facing. They're complementary.
|Making shoulder and neckline adjustments to my bodice sloper.|
|Fitting my bodice sloper to my Size 12 dress form.|
|Drafting my pants sloper|
What I like about draping is that you get to see your design on your dress form before you make a paper pattern for it. Somehow this feels more creative. Flat patternmaking involves more measuring, formulas, and calculations, so it feels more precise. Naturally, anything you drape will have to be turned into a flat pattern, so you'll always need drafting skills. I like both methods, and am glad I have the opportunity to study them side-by-side.
These summer accelerated classes are fun because they meet so frequently over so short a time. I love being able to just dive in and learn quickly, and to be surrounded by other students who are equally as passionate about what they're doing.
In closing, if you've studied both flat patternmaking and draping, which do you prefer? (And why?)
Have a great day, everybody!
|Turning a bodice sloper into a fitted torso sloper.|