I think I mentioned a few weeks back that I'm making a spring coat for my friend Leah.
Leah wanted something trench-like and, after looking a many pattern both contemporary and vintage, I stumbled upon McCall's 4214, which dates from 1974. Leah loved the pattern and the size was just right.
Yesterday I whipped up a muslin -- in actual cotton muslin of all things -- and today Leah tried it on. Leah's 5'4" so not quite petite. Other than deepening the hem to 4 1/2" instead of 2", I made no changes to the pattern. I made Version A, a knee-grazing full-length coat.
Here's the muslin on my dress form before hemming.
And here's the shortened version on Leah.
Leah loves the collar as-is but I'm wondering if it isn't a bit too wide. I'll definitely be softening the sharp corners of the lapels some. The coat will also have patch pockets and sleeve tabs, which should balance things out somewhat. What do you think?
As far as fabrics, we chose a beautiful champagne pink nylon taffeta but haven't entirely ruled out a heavier fabric. I have two possibilities in my stash: a liver-red boiled wool and a heavy pink cotton sateen. Leah thinks the the sateen is too pink for her. It also might not be that practical compared to the nylon taffeta, which will have some water resistance. We both like the wool but it would be a very different coat in something so thick, really not suitable for spring.
|This sateen is quite a few shades darker than the taffeta above though you wouldn't know it from this photo.|
Interfaced, the taffeta should be able to support the wide notched collar without going limp. It's a lovely color and will be easy to wear. The lining will also give it more heft.
My question is whether I should narrow that collar or will rounding the points do the trick? On the pattern envelope the collar isn't lying as flat as it does in my photos of Leah but it does seem proportionally smaller. Maybe it's just the drape of the muslin.
It has been a long time since I've made a woman's coat but it is quite fun. I hope to have this done in the next few weeks; we'll see,
Meanwhile, the MPB Winter Frolic is this coming Saturday. It will be cold but there's no precipitation for Saturday in the latest forecast -- a good thing. Don't forget the pattern swap!
Have a great day, everybody!