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Jun 16, 2015

Susan Models the Pencil Skirt Muslin



Yesterday I drafted a straight skirt pattern using Susan's measurements, prepared a muslin, and was able to have Susan try it on -- a busy sewing day!

As I've mentioned last week, I've chosen to work from Dorothy Moore's Pattern Drafting and Dressmaking rather than from commercial patterns.  Moore's book is very straightforward -- an excellent resource for those willing to start from scratch (i.e, your own measurements).

I inserted an 8" invisible zipper on the left side seam.  I left off the waistband (I simply turned the 1" seam allowance to the inside and pinned it) since I wasn't sure if Susan would need a waistband at all.  As it turned out, Susan -- who's rather short-waisted -- looks better without one. 





The skirt has four 1/4" darts in front and four 1" darts in back.





I knew I'd drafted and sewn carefully, but nevertheless I was nervous to have Susan try the skirt on.  I needn't have been: it fit beautifully!













I wanted to make sure there was enough ease in the skirt for Susan to sit down comfortably.  As luck would have it, there was a unisex bathroom nearby.  Ever-game (and giggly), Susan sat down in the closest available seat.





You gotta love a client like this!

I also repaired Susan's cotton golf skirt, whose zipper was broken.  It felt good to give this garment a second life and I was able to practice my (somewhat-rusty) invisible zipper insertion technique.









I am very excited to move on to Susan's bodice, which I hope to draft tomorrow.  Once I have these two slopers completed, I can think more about what I want to make with them.  I'm full of ideas for both dresses and separates -- and thank you for sharing so many of your ideas with me in your recent comments.

Have a great day, everybody!

26 comments:

  1. Beautiful job on the muslin. It fits perfectly! I have to give drafting a try. I've had that book for a couple of years and have not touched it.

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  2. Your muslin looks really great (and let's face it, even good muslins look kind of sketch) so your skirts in quality fabric will probably look gorgeous! Karen

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  3. The skirt fit beautiful! Thank you Peter!

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  4. What a lovely fit - none of the poochiness, for want of a better word, that so often ruins fitted skirts like that on all but most utterly greyhoundish among us.

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  5. Wonderful muslin! Fit is absolutely perfect!

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  6. The fit on that pencil skirt muslin is very flattering.

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  7. That skirt fits her beautifully. Great job!

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  8. Good job, Peter. I can see that pattern made up in a lovely brocade some day.

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  9. Poise, congeniality, and talent!

    Susan is causing a groundswell of intrigue and interest, without even trying.

    Not since "An American Family" (the Loud family documentary on PBS), have viewers been privy to such inner-sanctum details, gritty minutiae, and private moments.

    Susan seems at once, not to be all that concerned about her circumstances, and decidedly enjoying her now, studied, public self.

    Though she is careful to maintain her brand, and not allow her fittings to cross over into performance art, or something irreparably tawdry.

    Simply put, Susan balances what she offers to the viewer with what she keeps for herself, and we are only left to want more.

    Much more.

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  10. Congrats on a good drafted skirt sloper. I love having my pencil skirt pattern. I'm not criticising but in some of the photos the top of the waist may look a bit tight. Just may give a bit of a roll when she sits, or get uncomfortable by the end of the day. Only my experience. It's a bit of a juggle to get that bit great .

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  11. I agree - you will need to consider whether Susan will want to tuck in a top. But too much ease and the skirt will spin round with movement (especially with slippery lining). It's tricky to get this right.

    I think the length is spot-on.

    Spud.

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    1. i.e. I agree with Joyce Montgomery. Spud.

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  12. Its very satisfying self drafting a great sense of achievement. Not to mention the pennies you save. Its going to look great.

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  13. This is off the current program - although inspiration can come from anywhere... but those interested in men's fashion (or any fashion) might enjoy the videos available of London SS16 (June 12-15) on wwwDOTlondoncollectionsDOTcoDOTuk a lot of way-out-there-stuff, delicious fabrics. I just stumbled on the page while looking for examples of current fashion trends.

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  14. Excellent fit - I'm not surprised she's happy to share so much when the outcome for her is going to be such flattering clothes :-)

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  15. Peter I see you making the transition from sewist to couturier...........now when you get that showroom/office in the Olympic Tower remember two things. We've seen you in your skivvies and boxers and don't be a total sellout and lose the rights to your name! LOL!!!

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  16. She looks so happy! Great work!!

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  17. Your zippers are amazing! This is a really nice looking skirt.

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  18. Excellent! Very flattering! My daughter is very similiar to Susan in shape. I make her many no waistband straight skirts with a vent-it only takes a yard! So, we can really splurge on fantastic fabrics. In my experience, the top seam must be stabilized-I use twill tape to prevent stretching-and I face the top with a lightweight fabric plus a stiff-ish interfacing to provide the structure a waistband would ordinarily provide. To prevent a seam line showing on the outside from attaching the lining to the facing (I use a cotton to face and tricot to line) I don't make a seam but attach as you would lace-one fabric on top of the other. And I use a big wide lace to hem the lining-so it looks gorgeous from the inside as well. (My grandma left me a major stash of gorgeous tricots and matching laces). I am so enjoying this series of posts!

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    1. Those are great tips, Jean, thank you! I had planned to stabilize and face with grosgrain ribbon -- like a waist stay. I wonder if that will be sufficient.

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    2. Yes, Peter, absolutely. The grosgrain ribbon waist is the way to go on slim skirts like Susan's. Makes for a comfy fit, no show, and a pretty finish. Your work is terrific, Susan is a very lucky gal.

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    3. I think Petersham is the ribbon I want -- it's more pliable.

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  19. Looks great. Can't wait to see the fabric you pick for finished garment. Love grosgain in a faced skirt

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  20. Excellent fit! This is a very flattering skirt on her.

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  21. I love your blog! I've been thinking about your request for suggestions for Susan, and I have an idea. I think that a "V" neck sheath dress with strategic color-blocked panels would be very flattering. Princess lines lend themselves to that, and I also like contrast wedges at the waist. Another idea I had was "Y" darts, like on the Brazilia Dress (http://houseofpinheiro.com/2013/12/brasilia-dress-my-gift-to-you.html).

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  22. Way to go, Peter! Perfect fit--what more could a girl ask?

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