I still have outerwear on the brain as you can see.
This week, I want to try out Simplicity 1820, a boy's size 18 jacket pattern I picked up last spring on Etsy. Since the chest and waist measurements are identical to a men's Small, I don't expect any fit issues.
I'll probably make Version 1, the one with the knit waistband, since I've found great sources for rib knit in the garment district. I'm not sure if I'll opt for a knit collar like you'd find on a baseball jacket (also known as a letter jacket or varsity jacket), a knit collar like the Valstarino jackets I discussed last week, or just opt for the one that comes in the pattern.
I love opening vintage pattern envelopes: it's like uncovering buried treasure. While the pattern envelope was worn and split in spots, the pattern pieces themselves are in excellent shape, albeit a little discolored. Simplicity 1820 is nearly eighty years old, dating from somewhere around 1935-1937 judging by the price (15 cents) and the look of the envelope. (If you know better, please chime in!)
I pressed open all the pattern pieces with a dry, cool iron. It's all there.
Seams allowances are 1/2" -- glad I noticed that before sewing anything.
As with most patterns from this period, the instructions are brief, densely written, and well illustrated. No hand-holding back then; it was assumed you knew how to sew.
As with any pattern, I read the instructions carefully before getting started to make sure there won't be any surprises along the way. Vintage patterns usually include a fair amount of hand-stitching to anchor facings and things like that. In the parka I made last month, there was no hand stitching at all.
I'm not sure I'll bother making a muslin but, rather, may make a trial version with inexpensive fabric. I'm excited to get started.
In other news, I got to hang out yesterday with MPB reader Stephanie P., who was visiting NYC from Arkansas this last weekend. We met at her hotel and, after coffee, swung by here so she could meet the dogs (she has five of her own!) and play with my sewing machines (she has countless).
She also helped Michael get a tick out of his arm (don't ask) with a sewing needle -- guests never know what surprises await at our house!
Stephanie gifted me this lovely hand-sewn cover for my Singer 15-91, as well as a matching pin cushion in the shape of a dress form. Thank you, Stephanie!
Meanwhile, I couldn't resist picking up this 1987 unisex jacket, sweatshirt and sweatpants pattern, McCall's 3373 (below), which I found cheap on Etsy yesterday. It's a borderline Eighties atrocity (that styling!), but I love the lines of the jacket. And look -- more rib knit.
It's branded "French Fryzz NYC," whatever that was.
It's remarkable that, when it comes to menswear, both a Thirties pattern and an Eighties pattern can still work today. So very little has changed.
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!