Friends, I never thought I'd say this, but I'm starting to like tailoring!
The trick, for me at least, is to work slowly. I'm actually forcing myself to stop relatively early in the day so as not to push through this project too fast. I'm trying not to go more than four hours at a time (On some projects I've sewn twice that.).
A few details:
My undercollar, which I'd steamed and left to dry overnight wrapped around my tailor's ham, is now beautifully shaped.
I'm taking the time to pre-shrink my hair canvas and twill tape. Is this really necessary? I don't know, but in the scheme of things it doesn't take that much time. Better safe than sorry, right?
I chose not to padstitch my lapels because I want them soft rather than rigid. I still did all the basting of my hair canvas to my coat fronts, as well as to the pocket edges (plus catchstitching edges to shoulder and side) and have added twill tape to stabilize the edges of my lapels.
There's still a lot to do. I'm going to draft my own lining pattern as I had a few problems with the peacoat lining the first time around (which I made following the Japanese pattern book). I haven't decided how much structure/support I need at the shoulder -- I hadn't planned to add shoulder pads, but I may add a thin one to help support the sleeve. Likewise, I may add a layer of light sew-in interfacing to the sleeve cap area; still some research to be done about that. The tentative plan is to have my buttonholes done at Jonathan Embroidery this coming Friday, which means I have to attach my facings tomorrow; we'll see how it goes.
Readers, that's all for now. I feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel -- almost.
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!