I suppose it was inevitable. I've been working on this linen blazer for more than a week and I'm starting to get tired. Not sleepy, mind you, but worn out and whiny. There are too many techniques I'm doing for the first time and I feel like I'm sewing blind. I hope everything comes out right but who knows?
My latest concern is the size of my shoulder pads. I have quite a few pairs to choose from of varying qualities, widths, heights, etc. The best quality pair I have, purchased more than a year ago from Steinlauf and Stoller, is just too big in the jacket. Not too high, but too wide.
Do you see those folds just under the shoulders? It's like the jacket is hanging off the pads (at least that's what I think is happening; I hope it's not related to the shoulder reinforcement piece I made from an additional layer of fusible interfacing as per Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket). Not good.
Let's talk about something positive, shall we? Yesterday's big (and only) accomplishment was pockets -- three patch pockets, two of which had to match. I followed Marta Alto's technique in her Jackets for Real People DVD and it worked well. These are lined pockets, with the lining cut slightly narrower than the pocket so that when you turn it, the lining pulls the edges of the pocket under, ever so slightly.
You leave a gap at the top and pull the rest of the pocket through it (after trimming seam allowances).
You seal the gap with a bit of fusible web.
Instead of just pins, I used a little fusible web to hold the pockets in place while I stitched them; otherwise they'd creep. I'd have had a much easier time if I'd put the pockets on earlier in the project, but live and learn!
The upper chest pocket is, oddly, cut at an angle at the top, I guess so when the jacket's on and the pocket's curving toward your shoulder, it reads as straight. Go figure.
Today I hope to resolve the shoulder pad dilemma and address the lining. It's attached to the facings, but I still have to attach it to the armholes and vents. Wish me luck!
Oh, forgot to mention: I turned the lapels out (the so-called turning of the cloth) -- basically OK.
In closing, readers, have you ever started a project that turned out to be much more complicated than you'd thought it would be, and started losing steam before you finished?
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns. I also sew for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!