Lapels are ringing -- get it?
Much to cover today, readers! I've muslined my navy linen blazer. Just to review, I'm using Simplicity 8368, a vintage men's blazer pattern from 1969. I usually wear a 36" chest, this is a 34", which provides for a snug -- hopefully not too snug -- fit.
The blazer has a classic, somewhat boxy "ivy" style. This look hasn't changed much over the years; it comes, it goes, but it always returns. Simplicity 8368 is perhaps slightly slimmer than the one Paul Newman is modeling below. Mine will be closest to the blue jacket on the pattern envelope (Version 1), but with patch pockets like Version 2, because I don't feel like making welt pockets in linen.
I think my left lapel came out better than the right one; I didn't focus on those too much. I was mainly interested in the length and fit. I didn't fuss much with the armsyces either, as you can probably tell. I'll have to baste those in; linen will present its own set of challenges, I reckon.
I like the way this fits in the chest; there's sufficient ease in the back, but it's a tad narrow in the hips. I'll likely have a thin shoulder pad to give it a little more structure and less droop. Overall, not too bad. I want the fit to be snug but I don't want to be busting out of it.
|A bit tight in the you-know-what when I pin the jacket closed.|
For sanity's sake, I'm trying not to over-analyze this; it's a casual linen blazer, not a wool business suit. This will be a two-button jacket, so the fold of the lapel will be slightly lower than it is in most of these photos.
Friends, have you noticed how snug men's suits fit (or seem to fit) these days?
I found this photo below somewhere online a while ago; I didn't add the caption, but it does give you an idea of what goes on in many photo shoots. I hope this revelation won't spoil anyone's day.
Oh, before I forget: I washed and dryer-dried my linen. (Thanks for all your excellent advice about that last week.) It was very wrinkled right out of the machine but it ironed nicely. Glad I did it!
And that's it. I hope to get started today and I will keep you posted on my progress. If you happen to be sewing a similar garment, please sew along and maybe we can help each other out. I've already decided not to follow the Simplicity instructions re attaching upper and lower collars, which sound very similar to the ones Debi described when she was making husband David's Prince Charlie jacket -- actually, I think it was David who described it. I'll talk more about making that notched lapel in the next few days.
I'm off to sweat and sew -- hopefully more the latter than the former.
Stay cool and have a great day, everybody!
UPDATE: I let out the side seams roughly 1/2" inch on each side, which has improved things.