Dear readers, a million thanks for yesterday's comments. I think we're all going to enjoy wearing this coat and don't think I'm not serious -- I share.
Today, as we prepare to bid good-bye to the toggle coat project, I want to spend a little time discussing a few construction techniques I learned -- or tried to learn -- in the process.
As you'll recall, I spent a lot of time binding seams. I like binding seams. I cut my bias tape myself from black cotton sateen.
I used my plastic triangle to determine the correct angle, then with my clear plastic ruler I measured out 1 1/2" -- the desired width of my tape, and cut strips, as many as I needed, with my rotary cutter.
This worked great and it wasn't hard to enclose the seams once I'd had a little practice. I found stitching on one side, folding over and then ironing the strip helped keep things neat. I topstitch the second side rather than stitching "in the ditch" on the first side. This way I don't have to worry about the stitching missing the seam. (Does that make sense?)
Below is the armhole binding. It's a little thick. I'm toying with the idea of taking the sleeves in an inch. If I do that, I think I'm going to remove the bindings on both sleeve and armhole and just serge for a softer edge. We'll see if I bother.
Here is my hem. This was easy because the hem is straight.
Below is the finished hem. I ended up taking out those hand stitches I mentioned yesterday that showed on the outside of the coat. The hem stays up fine without them. In retrospect I could have topstitched the hem (Duffle coats have a topstitched hem, they just do) a little higher, but as-is is OK, or I can hand stitch the top edge, stitching only through the underlining.
The toggles were hard to stitch on. I had to get all the way around the toggle which meant passing the completed coat through the harp of my machine at times. In retrospect I might have done this BEFORE I added the sleeves; live and learn. I had never stitched leather before and I had bought just eight toggle sets, exactly the number I needed so I couldn't practice.
With leather, once you stitch it, that's it, the mark is permanent. The leather is an awkward shape to topstitch around. I did it by eye and I don't think I'd have done any better with an edge foot, not that I have any for my 15-91 anyway.
BTW, the 15-91 was able to handle these layers beautifully. Not sure if I could have done this on some of my other machines.
This shoulder could use pressing.
I can't really fit my ham up there -- what form should I use to press it? I have a sleeve board but that won't work. I thought about maybe just putting the coat on (Michael) and steaming it from the outside. Could I do that without causing injury? I just need to fill the shoulder space. Suggestions?
Guys, I think I'm toggled out. I hope you've found this post informative and if you have any specific questions, of course just ask.
Inclement weather down South has delayed the delivery of my 15-90 till Monday. I'm still waiting for my dog coat pattern as well as Cathy's futuristic jump suit. So we're kind of on hold here at MPB for the moment and trying to just BE.
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!