tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post4523966445692981402..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: The Last Toggle PostPeter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-18646372935631579912012-12-07T14:14:41.317-05:002012-12-07T14:14:41.317-05:00I don't think you could stitch it (by machine)...I don't think you could stitch it (by machine) close enough to hold the wooden toggle securely; a knot would be tighter. You'll have to experiment -- you might try stitching by hand, but somehow I think the knot would be more effective.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-9977300834544180822012-12-07T14:10:09.964-05:002012-12-07T14:10:09.964-05:00Thank you for your reply.
I am still unsure of whe...Thank you for your reply.<br />I am still unsure of whether the twine is knotted around the toggle (http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/hardline_42/woodtogglehalfhitch.jpg)(http://larkabout.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/img_16971.jpg?w=600) <br />or <br />if it is stitched close to the toggle (http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/hardline_42/woodtoggle.jpg).<br />I guess there are multiple ways to handle this. What is your opinion on the matter.<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-48664923752110674702012-12-06T13:05:47.934-05:002012-12-06T13:05:47.934-05:00It looks to me like the toggle is held in place by...It looks to me like the toggle is held in place by the twine (there's an indentation around the center of the toggle and the twine fits into this space).Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-44068876528291185382012-12-06T11:58:34.130-05:002012-12-06T11:58:34.130-05:00Very nice coat. I prefer the slightly loose fit si...Very nice coat. I prefer the slightly loose fit since these things should be wearable over a jacket or blazer. <br /><br />Anyway, I was wondering...I bought these Gloverall replacement toggles (http://www.gloverall.com/images/shop/l_36_94.jpg) but I have no idea how to attach them. The toggles themselves don't have any holes so I don't know how it locks on with the rope fasteners. Do you happen to have any idea?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-7467804677227863792010-12-22T13:39:18.227-05:002010-12-22T13:39:18.227-05:00Handsome coat, Peter! Another way for sewing the ...Handsome coat, Peter! Another way for sewing the toggles would be to have the coat to your right in front of the machine, and sew around the toggle counter-clockwise. That way just enough of the coat to get the toggle straight under the needle needs to fit through the harp. The bulk of the coat moves around the left side of the machine and not through the harp. This does mean practicing keeping your stitching even from the left edge of the foot though. It's an alternative to stitching from both directions if a continuous line of stitching is critical.JustGailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08948391538309176039noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-42459608336324327132010-12-17T23:28:51.534-05:002010-12-17T23:28:51.534-05:00Lawdy Peter, the panic I had reading your Facebook...Lawdy Peter, the panic I had reading your Facebook post "farewell toggles" or whatever, with a pic of what looked like you ripping something apart! Yikes, don't do that to us!<br />Thanks for all the details. I learn so much here! Sometimes when I'm sewing I wish I had a blog too so I could ask questions and get lots of fabulous helpful responses overnight.Janehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-50669673616840713562010-12-17T23:01:17.301-05:002010-12-17T23:01:17.301-05:00Tea towels rolled up neatly are dense enough to pr...Tea towels rolled up neatly are dense enough to provide good protection from the heat and steam. Otherwise I use my pressing cloth rolled into a sausage shape.<br />CorneliaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-71950460455879107322010-12-17T21:39:55.793-05:002010-12-17T21:39:55.793-05:00Your coat looks absolutely spectacular and I reall...Your coat looks absolutely spectacular and I really enjoyed reading about the process on your blog. :)Renée T. Habashyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13075751939922027954noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-1057702306889431812010-12-17T18:37:24.309-05:002010-12-17T18:37:24.309-05:00I also use the end of the ironing board, press fro...I also use the end of the ironing board, press from the inside as soon as the sleeve is set in and press the seam allowance towards the sleeve. I have a shot of steam type iron which I hover over the seam if I'm doing wool as damp wool can be shaped with your hand. When I'm sewing, I make all the pieces I can, then head to the ironing board to press everything at once, then go make coffee while it cools down.<br /><br />Coat looks great! The toggles were worth the extra $.<br />HeatherAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-86694442091345948622010-12-17T18:13:31.315-05:002010-12-17T18:13:31.315-05:00Your coat looks great! Those toggles must have bee...Your coat looks great! Those toggles must have been nerve-wracking to sew on!<br /><br />Hmm, you can't fit the ham in the shoulder by going from the opening of the coat? If you really can't, you could try using a pressing mitt. If you don't have a pressing mitt, I imagine an oven mitt could work much the same way.Karahttp://cloudedvisionsewing.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-29550183072354672262010-12-17T18:04:23.414-05:002010-12-17T18:04:23.414-05:00Such a beautiful coat. You will get such a kick ou...Such a beautiful coat. You will get such a kick out of being able to tell people you made it yourself as it looks perfect.Nathaliehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11570545194570856281noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-83459583001805455602010-12-17T18:00:14.936-05:002010-12-17T18:00:14.936-05:00For pressing a sleeve cap, I prefer to use a sleev...For pressing a sleeve cap, I prefer to use a sleeve roll (like a ham but tubular). My second choice is the smaller rounded end of my ironing board. Third choice as many readers also use is a rolled towel or two.<br /><br />Regarding which way to press the sleeve/shoulder seam I would open the seam, press the sleeve side toward the sleeve, and the torso side toward the torso, binding each separately if desired. This can help smooth the seam allowances and not give you a puffed sleeve look, more suitable for girl children. If you care to fill the sleeve cap, I was taught way back when to use a combination of a layer of horsehair, and a layer of a woollen fabric ( I don't remember it's name, but it was like quilt batting) All of these layers together were graded ( cut in layers to smooth them when steamed) then pressed and steamed many times to shape them properly. This treatment was applied along with self covered shoulder pads, all on top of the underlining, and under the lining.<br /><br />Congrats on your toggle coat project! The horn toggles are handsome.Carolnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-50796728285769865682010-12-17T17:04:52.091-05:002010-12-17T17:04:52.091-05:00Those toggles are truly beautiful, and you did a g...Those toggles are truly beautiful, and you did a great job on the leather (yes, it takes all the guts you have to do leather like that). But if you're going to keep being into binding, the least you can do is learn to cut it continuously.. http://quilting.about.com/od/bindingaquilt/ss/binding_strips_5.htmMarie-Christinenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-66721592950340809822010-12-17T16:56:16.284-05:002010-12-17T16:56:16.284-05:00KC, I'll try that method on the next toggle co...KC, I'll try that method on the next toggle coat! LOLPeter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-12087392894860558892010-12-17T16:53:53.946-05:002010-12-17T16:53:53.946-05:00Wearinbeads--Yes I think all those stores are deco...Wearinbeads--Yes I think all those stores are decorated with walls of machines. My pix from the UK are <a href="http://thesewcraticmethod.blogspot.com/2010/08/sewing-machines.html" rel="nofollow">here </a>.<br /><br />Peter, I'm sure this would not be the preferred method, but what would happen if you tried to stitch half-way around the toggle and then did the other half in reverse rather than forcing the whole coat through the harp. (Now that I've finally gotten my 15-91 stitching I think it's capable of magic. :) )KChttp://thesewcraticmethod.blogspot.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-27123265395128259922010-12-17T16:00:10.959-05:002010-12-17T16:00:10.959-05:00As Doreen said, toward the sleeve to fill the slee...As Doreen said, toward the sleeve to fill the sleeve head. There are some times you press armscye SA's toward the torso, but very rarely in a jacket or coat.Debbie Cookhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03601675304884019607noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-62855668073634842212010-12-17T15:20:13.681-05:002010-12-17T15:20:13.681-05:00The seam should be ironed toward the sleeve. This ...The seam should be ironed toward the sleeve. This fills the sleeve head.<br /><br />"I did it by eye and I don't think I'd have done any better with an edge foot, not that I have any for my 15-91 anyway."<br /> <br />I don't mean to start you on another collection but any short shank foot will fit your 15-91. And if you want to use the snap on kind of feet then there is a shank you can get to use those as well. The only thing to remember is short shank. I have so many feet that sometimes it takes me awhile to figure out what it is for...or how to use it.<br /><br />I am going to get a silicone baking sheet to use for those awkward spots. Maybe a silicone oven mitt so that I will be able to feel the fabric etc. Just being able to iron right up to the fingers should be really helpful!Doreenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09163688276505342063noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-70417660793661245382010-12-17T14:59:51.581-05:002010-12-17T14:59:51.581-05:00Peter the toggle coat is outstanding. I've be...Peter the toggle coat is outstanding. I've been following your process on picasa and have enjoyed every moment of it.Cennettahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09109335050044632749noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-70021093736366431342010-12-17T13:27:47.220-05:002010-12-17T13:27:47.220-05:00You should get yourself a trapper hat to go with t...You should get yourself a trapper hat to go with that coat - then you'd be the very pinnacle of fashion!<br /><br />(It is a fabulous coat, and I am filled with envy as I sit here knowing I'm going to have to keep stumping along in my ugly but very warm coat until it stops being 20 below).birdmommynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-86563260843775040892010-12-17T12:43:33.830-05:002010-12-17T12:43:33.830-05:00Thanks, Terry!
Debbie, just to clarify: I'm p...Thanks, Terry!<br /><br />Debbie, just to clarify: I'm pressing the seam allowance toward the sleeve or the torso? (I thought toward the torso, i.e., shoulder.)Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-49689607638256129012010-12-17T12:34:15.560-05:002010-12-17T12:34:15.560-05:00Wonderful job Peter. You are to be commended on a ...Wonderful job Peter. You are to be commended on a well done project.<br /><br />TerryTerryhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05164005556613999502noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-16051838574595749312010-12-17T12:22:08.365-05:002010-12-17T12:22:08.365-05:00This may be trickier with a heavy coat so maybe Mi...This may be trickier with a heavy coat so maybe Michael can help hold it if needed, but I press all shoulders off the curved edge of my ironing board, no ham or towel underneath. Put the shoulder seam on the edge of the board, with the sleeve facing away from you/board (so you're pressing seam allowances toward the sleeve). That's one of the reasons why an ironing board IS curved and narrow at that end. ;-) To press the entire armhole, just move the coat in a circle around that edge of the board. Should be do-able (hate that word!) in 2-3 rotations.Debbie Cookhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03601675304884019607noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-72830064274604135182010-12-17T12:19:38.491-05:002010-12-17T12:19:38.491-05:00I was in Las Vegas for a sales meeting, and after ...I was in Las Vegas for a sales meeting, and after it was over went to check out the newly opened Cosmopolitan hotel in City Center. On the second floor is All Saints Co store with about SEVEN HUNDRED vintage sewing machines in the three windows opening to the front. Inside are industrial machines that serve as racks for the clothing displays. I can't tell you how fun it was to look at the windows. Are all the stores like this? http://www.allsaints.com/store_locator/Wearinbeadshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18175752039767898951noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-52321498473363056772010-12-17T11:42:19.473-05:002010-12-17T11:42:19.473-05:00I measured carefully (toggle edge 3" from fol...I measured carefully (toggle edge 3" from fold, toggle top 6" from previous toggle top) and held it in place with my hand as I stitched. It was the easiest way I could come up with, Ann.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-78490844335656250432010-12-17T11:39:18.932-05:002010-12-17T11:39:18.932-05:00How did you get the toggles to stay in place while...How did you get the toggles to stay in place while you sewed them on? I'm assuming you can't use pins, right? It seems like this could be tricky, since it's so important to get the toggles properly lined up.Ann Vnoreply@blogger.com