Yesterday I realized that I'd traced the wrong size for the Japanese shirt pattern I'd intended to make: I'd traced a Medium but I actually needed a Large.
Unfortunately, today I had no energy to trace another size of the same pattern. So I came up with an alternative: I decided to make a muslin from a nearly identical pattern, this one an authentic 1920's Butterick men's shirt pattern (above).
I've had this pattern in my stash for a few years now, and in my exact size (36). There are a few differences between the Butterick and the Japanese reinterpretation -- the Japanese shirt has pockets, the Butterick does not -- but not many.
On the Butterick pattern, the armhole is cut higher but the top of the sleeve cap is flatter. This allows me to raise my arm above 90 degrees without pulling up the rest of the shirt with it. It also makes for a slightly fuller sleeve. You can see the difference below (the yellow paper is the traced Japanese pattern, below it, the Butterick).
Here's the muslin from the front; I stitched up only the right sleeve.
The Butterick is significantly longer than the Japanese version would have been, but I like that.
The back, below.
In the end, while the fit is okay, I'm not over the moon about the style. The truth is that I don't really wear band-collar shirts very often. Maybe in a more interesting fabric this would be more exciting.
So I think for the moment I'm shelving this project and moving on to something else. I might revisit it in the future, or try a different style from my Japanese pattern book when I'm in the mood to trace again.
All in all, I'm glad I made a muslin -- saves time and good fabric!
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!