I've just finished sewing a tunic-style shirt for a male client who wears mainly black (or dark gray) but wanted something a little unusual too.
I found a beautiful black solid at Mood. It's a cotton jacquard (with perhaps a little rayon in the weave to improve the drape) with a polka-dot weave. The fabric is slightly gauzy and, if you hold it up to the light, it's slightly translucent. That said, it's not at all revealing when worn.
BTW, I always run these fabrics by clients before purchasing them, usually through photos.
I love the way this shirt turned out, though the jacquard, which had a tendency to fray and shift (as gauzy fabrics often do), presented some challenges. Flat-felled seams, which I generally use when making shirts, weren't an option as the hand of the fabric is too soft, but I found the weave was too bulky for French seams. In the end, I simply stitched the seams and serged the seam allowances: the result is sturdy, clean, and unobtrusive. (I attached my yokes and plackets the usual way.)
Since the style of the shirt is basic, I used a contrasting black cotton floral for the inside cuffs and collar band. The outer band, cuffs, and front placket are black cotton sateen.
I'm still deciding how to finish the hem. Right now it's simply serged. I may turn the hem up and topstitch for a more finished look. Sometimes, however, I find that less is more when it comes to seam finishes, especially on drapey fabrics like this one.
One of the perks of sewing for others is being exposed to fabrics and styles I might not have considered for myself and discovering how much I like them. I would love a shirt like this for myself.
In other news, my dear friend Johanna who, as you may know, has a marvelous vintage sewing machine collection, has gifted me her vintage 1950's Elna Supermatic! It's in excellent working condition and comes with a large selection of decorative embroidery cams and other accessories. Eventually I will make a video comparing the Supermatic to the Grasshopper. They're both lovely green Elnas. Thank you, Johanna!
You can see the Supermatic run here. You can see the chihuahuas run here.
And that's it. Anyone ever sewn with cotton jacquard?
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!