Roughly three years ago, at the Chelsea flea market, I impulsively purchased three yards of lightweight silk taffeta in a gold, beige, and black plaid, at a very good price.
Since these really aren't colors that suit me and I don't have much occasion to sew taffeta, the fabric sat.
Fast forward to now. I have to sew a self-drafted blouse -- the final project for my FIT patternmaking class and due next Wednesday. Now we're certainly not expected to use fancy fabric, we just have to draft the pattern ourselves. But since I had the silk and thought it might work well for the type of blouse I had in mind -- semi-fitted button-down with bishop sleeves, collar stand, and collar -- I decided to use it.
Here's my inspiration (View 3):
This is my dress form, a Size 8:
Just to keep things interesting, I decided to make French seams on the sides, shoulders, and armholes of the blouse: good practice and not as difficult as I'd feared, since the taffeta was stable.
I made one big mistake on this blouse: I traced my fish-eye darts (there are 12 darts in all, 8 of them fish-eye) with red (RED!) carbon paper. What was I thinking? Lo and behold, after pressing my darts -- ugh. See the red line along the vertical fish-eye dart? The worst were the four darts in front, where I'd pressed my tracing wheel hardest, making the red really bold.
The inside looked like this:
I panicked. I decided I'd try to wash the red out by rinsing it with laundry detergent. The bad news is that the red didn't come out. The good news is that the blouse wasn't ruined. The pattern had room enough for slightly more fitted darts, so I stitched a little beyond the dart lines, enclosing the red marks so that they were no longer visible.
FYI, I asked Kenneth King about this and he suggested marking darts on silk taffeta with a hera marker (or tracing wheel) over a slightly soft surface, to crease the fabric, and then go over the crease with a white chalk wheel. Live and learn.
Since washing the silk made it softer and gave it a slightly different look, I decided to wash my bishop sleeves (as yet unattached) and all the silk I would use for my collar and collar stand. Here's what the washed silk looked like before pressing -- scary!
But it did press well. The blouse still needs buttons and buttonholes, but it's otherwise finished. My one fear is that it may have shrunk (my PGM 8 is smaller than the "curvy missy" AlvaForm 8 I use in class). I guess we'll find out next Wednesday!
|Poofy bishop sleeve detail|
I learned a lot making this blouse and I look forward to making another one someday, only without the drama.
Any fabric marking/marker bleeding nightmare stories you wish to share?
Have a great day, everybody!