If you follow me on Instagram, you know that two weeks ago I tried on a very cute Comme des Garcons jacket at Dover Street Market and decided to make something (somewhat) similar.
Here's the jacket.
I liked the fit and the way the jacket zipped up on a horizontal angle. I found a vintage Thirties pattern on eBay that I thought I could use as a jumping off place. Yes, it's for pajamas, but the top had possibilities.
I was all set to make a muslin out of an old sheet but decided to use some inexpensive black denim and see if I could make something wearable right off the bat. The denim is super-stiff and, since I'm not planning to machine launder the jacket, I didn't prewash it. I know I said I don't wear black, but this is more like a charcoal gray.
I picked up a black separating zipper at Sil Thread in the Garment District and had it cut down to the size I needed. I re-drafted the front right pattern piece so that I could insert one side of the zipper into the middle of it, running up to the right shoulder (like you'd find in a motorcycle jacket). The other side of the zipper will be attached to the front left lapel edge.
The basic shape of the jacket is like this white leather jacket (below), only with a zipper instead of buttons, and no epaulets (and like this one, single, rather than double-breasted).
Here's how things look so far. I haven't added the facings or overcollar yet, or the sleeves.
If things still look promising after the "turn of the cloth" (the point at which I attach the facings and turn them to the inside of the jacket), I'll add two front pockets, either welt or patch. I don't plan to line the jacket and I hate visible pocket bags, so maybe patch pockets is the way to go.
It's fun to just jump into something without much planning. Keeps things, fresh, know what I mean?
I'm hoping to make matching jeans too; we'll see how much black denim is left.
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!