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Apr 4, 2014

Adding a Double-Welt Pocket to My Latest Shirt



I mentioned that in my last menswear sewing class, Professor B. showed a small group of us how to make a double-welt opening, presumably for a pocket.  (I described the method in Wednesday's post; the sample is above.)

Could I add a double-welt breast pocket to my purple plaid and tiny floral fabric shirt?  It would mean -- gulp -- cutting through my shirt front.  If I messed up the shirt would be ruined.

Here's a photo of the look I was going for.  You don't see shirts with double-welt pockets too often.  It's a lot of added work and a shirt pocket is mainly for show, imo.  Still, it's a nice touch in a contrasting fabric.



I decided to go for it.  I made my welts narrow -- each finished welt measures 1/4", and the width of the pocket opening is just 1/2". 

I interfaced each welt, folded it in half and stitched it down the middle.  Then I attached it to the shirt, where I had ruled just a single center line.  Next I CAREFULLY cut through the center slit and pulled the welts through the shirt.  Oh yeah -- I interfaced each end of the opening, but not the whole thing.



I decided to edgestitch the welts around the whole pocket opening.  I didn't really have to.

Next, on the inside of the shirt I added a basic patch pocket in the same floral fabric as the welts.



I measured carefully and topstitched the pocket on from the right side of the shirt, in white thread.





So here's the finished shirt, all hemmed, complete with buttonholes and buttons, and now boasting a double-welt breast pocket!





Did I do this partially to show off my skills to Professor B?  How could you even suggest such a thing!

A few more details:









And that's it, readers.   I'm happy with this shirt; I used up some fabric I'd had in my stash for a long, long time.  I know I'll wear it even if the fit isn't perfect.  (Honestly, is fit EVER perfect, especially if you want to be able to breathe/move/eat/etc?)

Have a great day, everybody!

45 comments:

  1. That looks FABULOUS!

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  2. No, You did it for the challenge and the design possibilities!!!

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  3. Oh, VERY nice!
    I've just learned to do double welt pockets too, and they are going in everything. Moo hoo ha ha.

    They're a bit formal for some things, but I really like the look - particularly in contrast fabrics.

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  4. You brave crazy man!! It looks great! (And I love your fabrics!)

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    1. It's funny: I never cared for either fabric very much. But together I like them!

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    2. I agree, separately the fabrics are ho hum, but together..wow. I didn't think I would like the combo but it just works. the contrasting welt is fab

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  5. This looks fantastic! Those welts went in like a dream. Congrats on the pocket and a gorgeous shirt! :)

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  6. Well done! You are a shirt making genius.

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  7. That is GLORIOUS. I want one for me!

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  8. Beautiful workmanship, Peter!

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  9. That is a very cool detail. I'm not sure I have ever seen a double-welt breast pocket before. I like your fabric choices a lot.

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  10. Incredible!!! It's smart, casual, and stylish.

    Thank you for the visual guidance, seeing is understanding.

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  11. I really love this shirt! You are lifting things up a notch by doing the class (which I didn't actually think was possible, as you already did things so well). Beautiful details.

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  12. Can I say beautiful shirt, Peter! The welt pocket is perfect.

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  13. Wow! The welt pocket is amazing, and I love the 2 fabrics together. This may be my favorite shirt ever!

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  14. Oh my, wow and double wow-fantastic shirt and welt pocket. You are headed for a fall in the sewing room as once you reach that level of expertise, the sewing muses will fix you really good so you will remain humble .My moment was when the embroidery machine decided to eat my finished shirt not that it was that great but it was complete and ready to wear. That was really pushing the button to add that welt pocket when done like you did. I practically hit a dead faint when you said you were doing it after the shirt was done so really glad this was a fantastic addition. I don't want my husband to see this as I quit making his shirts a few years back and he will be bugging me to death to sew some for him. He'd be happy if I'd get off the computer and sew anything. I'm too afraid I'll miss something great like your fit class details to actually sew like I used to. Funny I managed to sew just fine for years and years and now I can't do a thing without seeing what everyone else is sewing or how they did it. Lol! Keep the posts coming though as I would really miss something super if you stop with the great pictures and projects.

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  15. I don't think I would have ever thought to put those two fabrics together, but I like them!

    Did you do your own buttonholes, or did you take them somewhere to be done for you?

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  16. Such a wonderful result! And so timely for me -- I'd just decided that I want (need!) to learn to make a double-welt pocket. Synchronicity! Thanks for the clear photos. :)

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  17. Superb! I've decided fit is never perfect as you noted. But yours looks perfect from here.

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  18. Love the color blocked shirt. Very eye catching! Your welt pockets are TDF!

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  19. Great shirt! It looks very Comme Des Garcons.

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  20. Beautiful shirt, great job on the pocket. Those 2 fabrics look great together.

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  21. Shirt looks fabulous.Love the contrast. The welt looks marvelous. Dance 10, Looks 10

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  22. Holy Moley!
    That's beautiful!

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  23. Love this Love this Love this! I'm about to attempt a button down shirt and I hope it looks 10% as good as this :)

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  24. You've just made for yourself one of the must-have fashion shirts this season. I love your shirt and the fact you keep finding inspiration into the latest fashion trends will change people's perception of home-sewing...I think you're starting to blur the line :)

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  25. I love your shirt. Love it! And the welt pocket is fab. When I was taking my jeans class with JStern she told us not to overfit. . . and when I was in my jeans period I really did quite a few tweaks to an already great fit -- I think there is something to that -- overfitting that is.

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  26. Hi Peter. Great pocket! I have recently been practising something similar to add to a jacket in progress. :-)

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  27. Your beautiful welt pocket really adds something to an already lovely shirt. It looks great. I would die happy if I could produce something this nice.

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  28. Great shirt! I don't get the fixation some people have with perfect fit to be honest - if weight changes even slightly then the fit won't be "perfect" again. I guess focusing on some bony areas (like shoulders) works, but not anything that goes near my tummy! Anyway, shirt is fab - the fabrics are great together and it really suits you. Rachel ☺

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  29. I saw the headline for your post and sniffed contemptuously . 'Welt pocket in a shirt? Ridiculous!' then I saw the finished shirt. Not ridiculous. Fabulous!

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  30. Awesome combination of fabrics and I love the welt pocket. Did the Professor share his opinion about determining the correct length of the sleeves? In RTW length is either standard or extra long, but I'm struggling when making a bespoke shirt for my husband.

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  31. That is an amazing pocket and I just love, love this shirt.

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  32. Your shirt is gorgeous!!! Very COMME des GARÇONS!!! The welt pocket is the perfect touch to bring the two fabrics together. Love the the two fabrics together!

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  33. I really like the mix of patterns. Perfect fit is a false construct. You can usually achieve 99% but unless a person turns into a cardboard cutout, that last 1% is just pure madness.

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  34. Very neat! And I love the floral/checkered combo! Genius!

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  35. The welt pocket really turns the shirt into something special. And while I don't necessarily comment on every occasion, I've been loving all your recent shirts! Very inspiring.

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  36. This combination of fabrics is a case of the sum being greater than the parts. They bring out the best in one another! And the welt pocket, well, that's fabulous too. Did you see the NYT article about meggings and shorts? Some nice inspiration...

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  37. Those fabrics are beautiful together and that pocket really adds a lot to the shirt.

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  38. Fabulous shirt! The fact that it showcases so many different skills makes it extra special - well done!

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  39. I saw a photo of a double welt pocket on the SIDE of a pair of men's shorts, between the knee and the hip. something a little different, but still cargo shorts!! the pocket was attached to the garment with stitching outlining the pocket bag, keeping it attached to the garment fabric. very chic cargo shorts : )

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