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Mar 20, 2014

WEARABLE MUSLIN: Professor B.'s Size Small Shirt Pattern



I bought this blue shirting last Monday when I was in the Garment District getting my dickey buttonholes done.

It comes from a very well-loved, teeny-tiny fabric store many of you are familiar with.  I swung by since I needed shirting for my Menswear Sewing class final shirt project and it was on my way home.  Unfortunately, I found myself in one of those situations where, even though there was nothing that blew me away, I felt like I had to buy something: the owner knows me, he'd asked why I hadn't come by in so long -- I would have been embarrassed to leave empty-handed.  Has this ever happened to you in a fabric store -- perhaps this fabric store?

I liked the color of this fabric but I wasn't sure about the content.  What is this? I asked.  I was assured it was all cotton.  Well guess what...



It's definitely cotton-poly and not the kind of thing I'm interested in sewing with at this point; in retrospect I should have trusted my fingers.  I toyed with the idea of returning it, but at $4 a yard I couldn't really justify the effort; I'd find some use for it, surely.

Today I did.  I used it to make a muslin of the size Small shirt pattern Professor B. had me trace on Tuesday.  This shirt has a collar stand based on one by Canali, and as you can see, it's much more shaped than most standard collar stands.



The collar itself is also much more contemporary-looking than the one we used for the dickey.









I attached it using the method we learned in class.  One end looks great, the other protrudes a smidge.





The shirt itself fits big, but it's probably what passes for a size Small these days.  It fits Michael quite well, however, though it might benefit from fish-eye darts in back.  It still needs buttons and a finished hem.









This shirt also has one of those simple folded-under-twice plackets (like the dickey).  I don't mind that.



I know Professor B. has drafted shirts for Brooks Brothers; I don't know if that's what he does when he isn't teaching.  The only real problem I had with the pattern was extra length on one side of the sleeve.  Maybe he wanted us to ease the longer side into the shorter?  User error?



Making this shirt today reminded me how much harder it is to make a well-sewn shirt out of a cotton-poly blend.  A blend doesn't ease like 100% cotton so you have to be extra careful about puckering.  Needless to say, I used only faux flat-felled seams (serged and stitched down) -- I didn't want to invest too much time in this project.

Tomorrow perhaps I'll finally start Michael's crossword puzzle shirt.  He'll likely get this blue one too.

Have a great day, everybody!

Me writing today's post.

17 comments:

  1. I'd ask about the sleeve length discrepancy - cotton won't ease like wool, and that seems like an awful lot to try to ease into the seam.

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  2. That extra fabric is for an elbow dart. Dart it!

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    Replies
    1. Yes, I was thinking there was an elbow dart as well. Or, sew the sleeve together with the longer side DOWNWARDS, maybe that will "machine ease" in the extra length.

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  3. Lovely collar! What are your feelings on the overall sleeve length in terms of fit for you. I am slowly learning about fitting men's shirts and still have much to learn. Looking at you, I think the fit looks quite good, agree on the fish eye darts, but wonder if the sleeves look a little long. Or would you say this is a good sleeve length...hard to see without a tree pose ;-)

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    1. It's definitely a little too long -- maybe 2". When it's buttoned it won't be quite as noticeable I don't think.

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  4. Great use of the fabric and yes, that has happened to me. It isn't a fabric store but a antique/decorating shop. A friend owned one in town, I would go in occassionally, not my style but always felt like I couldn't leave empty handed. It is just awkward.

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  5. It looks like a nice fit. I like the turned placket. I saw some beautiful shaped collars and collar stands on the "off the cuff" blog. They looked like the one your doing. My dog does the same thing at the comp and a cat behind my head.

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  6. You are SO far ahead of my sewing skill level but I love your projects, it's so educational! And fun. As for the shop awkwardness - years ago I made a friend who worked in a shop where I bought stuff frequently - then the owner sold the shop to the clerk, who had VERY different taste and nothing I cared for. What saved the day was, I'd stop in to say hi, and about every 3rd visit I'd bring her a cappuccino, or a little bouquet, or a book she'd loaned me ... on the rare event that she'd have got something in I liked, I'd pounce & buy it. Our friendship lasted years and years, until she moved out of the country.

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  7. For shame! I hate being sold the wrong fabric. That sucks. But at least it was cheap enough to be used for a muslin.

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  8. I never really understand: HOW do you get your edgestitching so close and consistent? I'd love some edgestitching tips...or a link to a previous blog.

    Other readers, how can I edgestitch like Peter?

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    1. I use the edge of my straight-stitch foot as a guide. Chose an edge that works for you and practice. You can also use an edgestitch guide foot.

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  9. Looking good! Jealous, my muslins rarely end up wearable. The extra sleeve fabric is probably ease for the elbow. It can be tough using synthetics if the pattern was created for natural.
    I noticed the collar problem was on the same side as the dickey. Maybe you could ask your teacher for advice. Something I have done with collars is to go from front to center back, stop, flip around and start from the other front and overlap at the back.

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    Replies
    1. Right and ease any excess in the center.

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  10. Lindo tecido, a camisa ficou perfeita parabéns.
    Beijos Vivi
    http://casacherry.blogspot.com.br/

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  11. That is one smart shirt pattern! But as well as being a bit long for you I think the back body piece is a touch too wide. Would narrowing the body just at the back work instead of using fish eye darts?

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  12. Willy as office manager!

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  13. Too bad the new shirt isn't all cotton as the colour is good for both of you, but especially Michael. Looks like spring! Right now, we're still up to *here* with snow, and I can do with all the happy colours I can get.

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