Having taken a hiatus for a couple of weeks, readers, it is time to start sewing again!
There are two garments I want to complete this week: long white linen pants and a butter-colored (or is it Parkay?) cotton short-sleeve shirt.
For the shirt, I've decided to take another crack at V8889, the new Vogue men's shirt pattern. (You can read some reviews of it here.) The first time I sewed it I redrafted it, you'll recall, so that it was narrower in the shoulders and wider in the waist and hips (I'd originally cut a 34" even though my normal size is 36"). The final version, white cotton with a contrasting inner collar, came out cute but a bit snug in the upper chest (pecs, you know). Good thing it's a summer shirt because I can't button the top button without pull lines appearing.
This time I decided to add a little width all around by using a 1/2" seam allowance on my six side seams (side, side back, and side front) instead of 5/8". If my math is correct, that means a difference of 1.5" total extra ease. As a result the shirt is a bit looser, while still relatively fitted.
I cut my back yokes on the bias. The pattern has you cut the yokes parallel to the selvage, but there's a gentle curve at the top of the back and it's very difficult to ease the back if it's cut that way; there's no give. I think last time I cheated by eliminating most of the curve at the top of the back where it attaches to the yoke, making the back very flat.
I decided to do the inside collar in gray cotton shirting, both for contrast and so I won't worry so much about ring around the collar. When I topstitched around the outer collar, I used yellow thread on top and put gray thread in my bobbin.
Can I say a word about this cotton fabric? It's subtly satiny on the right side (even after laundering; it's not just a glaze) and the texture is almost like very thin flannel, i.e., brushed. It's super soft to the touch but harder to work with than regular men's shirting -- it's more pillowy. The stitches really sink into the fabric too, making it extremely difficult to pick out the odd stitch when necessary.
I did true flat-felled seams on the armholes, but the side seams are simply serged (the seam allowances I mean) and stitched down.
Here's a peek at the finished collar -- I'm saving the big reveal for an upcoming photo shoot when I'll wear it with my linen pants -- at least that's the plan. My favorite feature of V8889 is the covered front button band -- very elegant and minimalist. It's actually easier to make than the uncovered band!
That's all for today, friends. I do hope your sewing projects are going swimmingly.
In closing, what are your thoughts about butter? When I was growing up everybody I knew thought margarine was better for you, but I've since switched to butter and never looked back. Who needs all those additives?
Have a great day, everybody!