Friends, it's cut. Not the lining, not the interfacing, just the cranberry corduroy. (Yes, that is a Laugh-In wastepaper basket.)
Will I regret not making a muslin? I suppose in a way, this is the muslin.
If I covered this earlier, apologies; my mind's a little hazy. Here's the pattern I'm using. It has two lower patch pockets and a single welt breast pocket. In an ideal world the lower patch pockets would be welt pockets with flaps. I don't think I can manage that this week.
Got that? A weekend.
Now I've used this pattern once before, about this time last year, when I attempted my first jacket. I never did wear it out of the house but it is recognizable as a mens jacket -- albeit badly misshapen and fitting poorly in the back.
I need to take some width out and I should have done this before I cut my fabric, I know, I know.
I have Don McCunn's How to Make Sewing Patterns (but not his number on my speed dial, unfortunately) and he addresses some of these issues: in particular, how the mens basic bodice pattern (which I made over the summer) is adapted to make a suit jacket pattern (and how to draft the side piece that one finds under the arm of a mens jacket), and then how they are then shaped along the seams.
I think I can successfully take out a little width from the shoulder and mid-back without screwing everything up. Cross your fingers.
I'm not using fusibles on the front even though I've read there is fusible interfacing you can use with corduroy. I intend to use the haircloth I bought for Michael's suit project, and I'll probably do most of my stitching by machine. The procedures are explained in both my Simplicity Sewing For Men and Boys and Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket.
I'm shooting for something akin to this (from the Barney's jacket I demolished last August). Most of the interfacing was attached by machine. The corduroy is already spongy so I'm not sure I'll use the lambswool for the chest piece; maybe flannel or something with less loft.
I have a LOT of information, readers, probably too much. I'm going to do the best I can with the time I have: basically five more days. If it's a wearable garment by Saturday night, great. If not, there's always the rose print cocktail dress.
This is what I'm shooting for (albeit brighter) -- soft, but structured. We'll see how close I get.
I'm a native New Yorker and self-taught sewing fanatic! I've been sewing obsessively since 2009 and today make all my own clothes using mostly vintage patterns and vintage sewing machines. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!