tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post361501844338749170..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: The Mens Suit Jacket (and five days to go...)Peter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-89548902902579956962010-09-28T22:25:10.901-04:002010-09-28T22:25:10.901-04:00Peter, I think you are doing an admirable job. You...Peter, I think you are doing an admirable job. You certainly have enough information and advise to make good decisions about constructing your jacket. Trust your instincts and you will do fine. Of course, you can always throw the jacket over your shoulder and let that tush of yours do all the talking!<br /><br />Sending you good vibes.Doreenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09163688276505342063noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-60507386297378241092010-09-28T21:58:07.218-04:002010-09-28T21:58:07.218-04:00Good luck dear!!!Good luck dear!!!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-26684310635316509542010-09-28T17:26:02.737-04:002010-09-28T17:26:02.737-04:00What a co-inky-dink that you mention McCunn's ...What a co-inky-dink that you mention McCunn's pattern making book as I was checking it out for about the third time last night on Amazon's website last night deciding whether or not to order it. I would love to know your thoughts on the book. Thanks for your blog and all the inspiration that it gives to those with not as much courage to charge ahead.okaysofihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06763169836274772051noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-41421528041410338882010-09-28T14:33:49.526-04:002010-09-28T14:33:49.526-04:00Thanks, Anonymous. I've added a few I had fro...Thanks, Anonymous. I've added a few I had from the front. I realize I've been pinning the front too high -- it should be lower and it is on the pattern.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-23907781516487021812010-09-28T14:08:12.284-04:002010-09-28T14:08:12.284-04:00Hmm, are those pictures of the back with the jacke...Hmm, are those pictures of the back with the jacket closed or open? If they are closed, and judging by the one picture where the front clearly is closed, it looks to me like the button stance - where you've pinned it closed - should be lowered a bit - ideally it should be at your natural waistline it also looks like the back of the side body could have a hair shaved off it or perhaps just around the waist area - the fabric looks a little bit excessive there. I wouldn't worry about the mid-back area too much - if there is excess fabric there (I assume that's what you're concerned with?) it's not difficult to adjust at center back before adding the collar - much easier to take away than to add obviously. At worst you'll have a coat that's comfortable but not necessarily with the cleanest back. In my opinion that is far preferable to the opposite - a beautifully clean back that has you wincing every time you reach out to open a door or dare to give someone a hug.<br /><br />The armholes do look to be a little too low but as you've already cut the fabric there's not much you could do about it and this is, sadly, a very common occurrence with the majority of people's clothes in this day and age.<br /><br />Lastly, I would ask why you want to give the back "support"? To my knowledge It's not done at all to interface the back, at least not in bespoke menswear. I would seriously reconsider this if I were you - a jacket should move with you and be comfortable whilst making you look your best and fitting beautifully. The areas of most movement - the shoulders and back should be free to do this and I can't see how this would be the case with any sort of canvas applied. Like I say I've never ever seen it done, not anywhere. The only sort of reinforcement I could recommend would be some lining or pocketing along the shoulder seams which, in any case, is pretty standard.<br /><br />Good luck<br /><br />P.S. Some pictures from the front with the jacket pinned closed would really be beneficial to any judgement of the fit that one could make based solely on looking.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-71597499025785421282010-09-28T14:01:13.917-04:002010-09-28T14:01:13.917-04:00NO help here on fitting as the last man's jack...NO help here on fitting as the last man's jacket I made was a squarish 80s thing. What you're doing looks good. I like horsehair as it's firm, flexible and soft all at the same time, not at all like modern interfacings, but it does ravel a bit if you don't watch it. And it smells better than synthetics. If I were you, I'd concentrate on the fit and make whichever pockets the remaining time allows. You're going to look great in this jacket!<br /><br />Wonderful idea to destruct a jacket. Goodwill here I come. And thanks for the men's how to references. Maybe I'll try my hand at something for DH who's allergic to wool.<br />HeatherAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-61487810394400027532010-09-28T13:41:02.428-04:002010-09-28T13:41:02.428-04:00Here are my morning muslin pics. The width across ...Here are my morning muslin pics. The width across the mid-back is my concern. This is made from a cotton sheet. The back of my fashion fabric will have some support, not sure what yet.<br /><br />http://picasaweb.google.com/PeterLappinNYC/JacketMuslin?feat=directlinkPeter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-23797658044837906682010-09-28T12:18:57.974-04:002010-09-28T12:18:57.974-04:00P.P.S. The back shoulder tightness I mentioned is ...P.P.S. The back shoulder tightness I mentioned is something you will only feel once the sleeves are on. <br /><br />Also look out for the fit around the neck - it's Very easy to make this too big.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-69737850225548385852010-09-28T12:16:13.756-04:002010-09-28T12:16:13.756-04:00u can use felt as well... works just as greatu can use felt as well... works just as greatNikihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17412971709899674224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-44770180783846117582010-09-28T12:13:28.699-04:002010-09-28T12:13:28.699-04:00For what it's worth, having made 3 suit jacket...For what it's worth, having made 3 suit jackets for myself starting out mainly from the Cabrera book and branching out from there to mainly observation and intuition and wonderful blogs like JeffreyD's tuttofattoamano, my advice would be:<br /><br />- ditch the chest piece completely, especially if you're going for a "soft, but structured." look it'll save you more time than one would think and probably look better for it.<br /><br />- be extra vigilant working off of a muslin made from cotton - I did this for my first jacket and whilst I got an overall fit that was not bad there were many finer details that were lost in the drape of cotton muslin and once rendered in the actual fabric were quite different to the: for me these were shoulder width - shoulders too wide on cotton muslin (easy to overlook because it doesn't have the body of wool or corduroy).<br /> and<br />( the Most important area that the muslin didn't help with at all was) the back shoulder area, I beg you Peter don't cut the back shoulder seam to short it should be LONGER than the front shoulder seam and considerably longer too, believe me if you make the mistake of not doing this you could easily end up with very uncomfortable tightness across your back - Not fun! <br /><br />Anyway, I hope this is of some help.<br /><br />P.S. You're right to stick to patch pockets given the time constraint.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-78084237550587521492010-09-28T11:55:17.227-04:002010-09-28T11:55:17.227-04:00I think you are dong a super job. The jacket is go...I think you are dong a super job. The jacket is gong to look great. I like the pic of the look you are shooting for. The jacket is quite fitted, and I note that it is paired with unmatched pants. I know that you will look great at your reunion. Good luck this week!sulymohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07887228971839188556noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-58348541183922629582010-09-28T11:51:36.859-04:002010-09-28T11:51:36.859-04:00What a terrific color. I'm sure it will turn o...What a terrific color. I'm sure it will turn out fabulous, you've researched everything so well!pterionhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12459353247583310216noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-40276486244347822902010-09-28T10:04:32.486-04:002010-09-28T10:04:32.486-04:00Is that a hint of fabric snobbery I hear? I think...Is that a hint of fabric snobbery I hear? I think that excites me as much as the cranberry suit!<br /><br />Now, not to start trouble, but why don't you give those welt pockets a second thought. You've taken care of most of the fit issues and the pattern does say that you can make this in a weekend... and it's only Tuesday.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-63159124503560098832010-09-28T09:46:32.730-04:002010-09-28T09:46:32.730-04:00I love the whole idea of a cranberry corduroy jack...I love the whole idea of a cranberry corduroy jacket - you're going to look super-fabulous come Saturday night!Eugeniahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-61966482985541304252010-09-28T09:43:54.626-04:002010-09-28T09:43:54.626-04:00UPDATE: I made a muslin of front, sides and back, ...UPDATE: I made a muslin of front, sides and back, out of an old sheet. <br /><br />It took no time at all (about an hour) and I may even add sleeves.<br /><br />Definitely worth it as I discovered that the fit issues with the earlier jacket had more to do with the crap-quality poly blend I'd used than with the pattern.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-60852103032888384012010-09-28T09:41:54.853-04:002010-09-28T09:41:54.853-04:00Good luck. I am working on a winter jacket for my...Good luck. I am working on a winter jacket for my husband. It is my effort to make more for him. It is also a nice way to use him as my draping model since I can't be my own model and my kids won't sit still long enough for me to use them. LOL. I figured I could do the men's winter jacket because I have made a few ok suit jackets in the past. Have you ever done a winter jacket. I was inspired by Gertie's sew along. I love the men's clothing you do, by the way.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08069274912736533369noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-8289671849303536872010-09-28T09:27:58.559-04:002010-09-28T09:27:58.559-04:00Good luck! You can do it!Good luck! You can do it!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-82644788967057778722010-09-28T08:28:42.670-04:002010-09-28T08:28:42.670-04:00Your suit is going to look gorgeous!
And who could...Your suit is going to look gorgeous!<br />And who could resist 'Sewing For Men and Boys'? I'd buy a copy just for that title and cover shot.Nathaliehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11570545194570856281noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-6663199228370073332010-09-28T08:07:43.605-04:002010-09-28T08:07:43.605-04:00Laugh In! What a great show! And the jacket is loo...Laugh In! What a great show! And the jacket is looking good. Love the dudes on the front of the Simplicity book ... talk about busy pattern mixing, oy!Janhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18066758660094361427noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-7104410529176195172010-09-28T08:02:24.929-04:002010-09-28T08:02:24.929-04:00Sending you super suit mojo -- looks like an auspi...Sending you super suit mojo -- looks like an auspicious start to me. I've no advice on haircloth. I've never used it. Hope some more knowledgeable fans can give you the scoop. <br />Hey! what are the shirt plans with the jazzy suit?<br />Keeping tuned with enthusiasm!Erzulimojohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01475371609166418042noreply@blogger.com