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Jul 19, 2018

Ladies African Wax Print Tailored Jacket!


This week I finished a client project I'd been working on for the last couple of months: a lined, notch-collar tailored jacket made from an African wax print from AKN Fabrics and Textiles, a store just south of the Garment District that specializes in them.

AKN has an enormous selection of prints and excellent prices (fabric is generally sold in six-yard pre-cuts).  The fabric I used for the jacket is from Mitex Holland, a manufacturer of high-quality wax prints.



My client, Trinica and I visited AKN together and she chose the fabric herself.  It was an excellent choice!



When I met with Trinicia for our first session, I took her measurements according to Kenneth King's moulage method of drafting a sloper.  After drafting and fitting, I used the sloper to create the notch-collar jacket pattern.  It took a series of fittings to get things just right.




Once I cut into the fashion fabric, the jacket came together quickly.  The jacket is fully lined with a black poly-rayon twill from Metro Textiles.  The front panels are flat-lined with a sturdy cotton-poly blend from Chic Fabrics (I also used this fabric to create a back stay).  I used a lightweight fusible for the facings, the under collar, and to reinforce the cuff edges.  The jacket is hemmed with a 2" wide bias facing.

I found the perfect buttons for the jacket at C&C Buttons on 38th Street.  It was love at first sight.


I had my buttonholes made at Jonathan Embroidery.  Two lovely keyhole buttonholes reinforced with buttonhole gimp cost just $3.  For a bit more they'll even sew the buttons on for you, though I opted to do this myself.


Trinicia picked up the finished jacket yesterday and we were both delighted with the result.  The fabric looks wonderful on her and the fit of the jacket really flatters her curvaceous figure.




While I love making custom clothing, naturally some projects are more fun to work on than others. This was a truly a fun one!


Have a great day, everybody!

25 comments:

  1. Terrific fit, Peter...I know how difficult ladies tailored jackets can be to fit properly, but you chose the perfect design, princess seams to achieve it.....also like that the notch on the collar is not too high...perfect proportion on a fuller figure...kudos to you, Peter!

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  2. AB.SO.LUTELY perfect!!!! It fits like a glove and that print is just a showstopper.

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  3. I love that first photo. She looks so beautiful and happy in that jacket. Nice work!

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  4. A smiling client means at least two happy people! And Trinicia's smile looks very contagious.

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  5. You seem to be surrounded by beautiful people all the time. Gorgeous jacket. I wouldn't dare go into that amazing store. I would NEED to buy everything!

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  6. That fabric is gorgeous and the fit is spot on, you and your client must be so proud with this collaboration. Beautiful work!

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  7. Wow! Brilliant choice of fabric and design. What a great collaboration. Nice work, both of you.
    Spud.

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  8. What a joyful jacket! I love the print, you are right it does showcase her lovely curvaceous figure. Your work as always is amazing. I am sure Trinicia will always be smiling when she wears this jacket.

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  9. Well done, Peter. The fit is spot on!

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  10. Fabulous work, Peter! I can tell your client is pleased with the jacket. She looks beautiful wearing it!

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  11. Trinicia is absolutely beautiful and obviously very happy with this extraordinary jacket. I wouldn't be surprised if she is back for another version.

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  12. To go back a little, I read that these prints are a "means of communication", or that they represent something. (Somewhat of a sketchy definition per Wikipedia.) Did Trinicia choose this print for its meaning or for its aesthetics? Was the princess style of the jacket the reason for choosing the lengthwise stripe? Does the proprietor of this specialty shop have information on the individual patterns? Anyhow, the jacket is unique and beautiful whether it is a fashion statement or ...

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  13. This pattern looks beautiful on her!!! I am so impressed! I wish I could be a fly on the wall and watch your process. I’m working on learning pattern drafting. I know how difficult it is. You did a beautiful job!!!

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  14. That is so WOW! Very nice job and your beautiful client looks so pleased. Well done.

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  15. Absolutely stunning jacket. I am sure that it will be very well-worn and loved. Xx

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  16. Spot on! Looks terrific - fabric, fit and buttons.

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  17. Mitex! I remember their waxprints from my days in Ghana 20 years ago—they were considered the very best. I had some lovely waxprint clothes, although, being far from flush at the time, mine were made from cloth from lesser makers. I still have one last Ghanaian shirt, which I'm rather pleased not fits but is rather looser than it was in those days...

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  18. All I can say is WOW!!!!BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!

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  19. I love a tailored jacket. This is a stunning piece of work, the fabric is beautiful and the smile says it all.

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  20. OMG! I've generally seen African prints done up as billowy garments and accessories. However, the tailored jacket takes it to another level. I LOVE this jacket. And the proof is in the big smile your client has while wearing this jacket. Great job!

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  21. Wow wow wow! That looks gorgeous on her! AKN was top of my list when I visited NYC last year. So much selection and great prices! I was a little freaked out by the older gentleman sleeping in the corner blending into the stacks of fabric!

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