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Jun 6, 2017

Self-Drafted Floral Linen Pants!


So last week I sewed up a pair of pants using the pants pattern I drafted for myself in my menswear patternmaking class at FIT, which ended last month.

I learned a lot!

I made these pants from a relatively coarse, heavy floral linen I found at Mood that had a "closeout" tag.  I can't resist a "closeout" tag!  The print was very different from anything I'd seen before -- it reminded me of the Art Deco carpeting at Radio City Music Hall-- so I decided to give it try.  Given its weight, I figured it was perfect for pants.

The pattern itself is straightforward: flat-front pants with two side pockets, two single-welt back pockets, and a two-piece waistband so I could fit the pants at the center back seam (instead of at the side seams before attaching the waistband, as one does with jeans). 


They came together easily.  I hemmed them even though I suspect they'll shrink a bit more in the wash.  Fortunately my hem is 3" deep.



A few more detail shots below.

Waistband and belt loop.



There's a hook-and-eye closure at the waistband in addition to a button.  That way there's less stress on the buttonhole and the waistband is more secure.  I may upgrade to a nicer button down the line, though, hey, it will always be under a belt.



In an ideal world the back waistband would lie on top of the center back seam (below), but this way (with the CB seam over the waistband, spread open, and tacked down) the pants are much easier to alter, should I need to.   From the outside you can't tell the difference.



Since I was using a one-piece waistband instead of a separate inside facing (or that ready-made, stiff curtain you see in men's dress pants), I cut my waistband along the selvage. That way I could just let the inside waistband hang (as opposed to folding it under and stitching or finishing it with bias tape).  Less bulk.


I am proud of my single-welt back pockets.  They're hard to see, but I put a lot of work into them.



In front are two side pockets.


Finally, a zipper fly.



I really love these pants and it's nice to be able to say I drafted the pattern myself.  I hope eventually to make up the pants with all the button-on/button-off pieces -- maybe sometime this summer.  We shall see.

Have a great day, everybody!


21 comments:

  1. The fabric is gorgeous but the best part is the fit – they fit like a dream. Perfection. Well done. Bravo!
    I hope you'll share your process for getting such a great fit.
    Vancouver Barbara

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  2. Great look and a perfect fit!

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  3. Best fit I have ever seen in a pair of men's pants! Good choice of fabric also! Your stitching is immaculate!

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  4. Very nice indeed - I suspect the flat belly makes the fit look its very best (but I wouldn't know because I don't have one.....).

    ceci

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  5. Nice! A very attractive yet restrained fabric. I am assuming that it was not at all scratchy even though you described it as "course". Brave not to wash thoroughly before sewing. Especially linen. Could this have been meant for upholstery, or have we tossed all those silly old categories? Anyhow, it works!

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    1. Even though it's coarse, it's soft. And I wasn't clear: I definitely pre-washed my linen, but in my experience, even with prewashing, the final garment will shrink a bit, especially in length. I too thought it might be intended for upholstery -- it's that weight. It's softer than home dec linen I've seen, however.

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  6. Great pants, love the fabric. I also use a CB seam on my waistbands, to facilitate fitting. Works great. Sassy pants!

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  7. Nicely made, excellent fit and the length is just right. Maybe a cold water wash and line dry will preserve the size.

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  8. Love these pants - perfect fit - congrats!

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  9. They are in the same league as the silver lame' jeans!!

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  10. using the selvedge in the waistband is a brilliant idea!

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  11. Perfection Peter. Excellent job.

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  12. These are absolutely wonderful, Peter. The fit is excellent, the fabric choice fun - I love them. Do you ever wonder what you did before you decided to sew? You were clearly meant to do this.

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  13. I love these pants! They're simply amazing. Great use of fabric and pattern together!

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  14. Beautiful job. Excellent fit. Congratulations!

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  15. Great fit! I'm inspired to sew a pair of flat front pants using a vintage pattern from the sixties. Thanks for the inspiration!!! ps love your silver jeans as well:)

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  16. Love your pants! I noticed the welt pockets and immediately thought such superb detail. I really like seeing the inside of projects as well as the outside and you do a marvelous job inside and out. I once had a dressmaker/tailor instructor say the inside of a garment should look as pretty as the outside. So true. Good job with every aspect of your pants.
    Sharon

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