Friends, my current draping class at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), which began at the end of August, ended this morning -- in a snowstorm. It's been a long semester!
The class was dedicated to draping soft silhouettes -- dolman sleeves, pegged skirts, cowls, etc. At the beginning we draped in muslin, and then moved on to knit jersey and woven crepe. For our final project, we were required to drape a two-piece ensemble with a resort feel -- think cruise ship. One of the pieces needed to include a cowl -- either front neck, back neck, or underarm on the top, or a cowl on the pant (which I don't think anyone opted to do).
I had draped a top with an underarm cowl earlier in the class, but in a heavy wool crepe (below). For my final project (aka term garment) I'd planned to use a cream-colored crepe, but that too ended up being too heavy.
|I love this creamy crepe but it doesn't have a resort feel -- it's too heavy.|
The pant I designed is full, with two front pleats, left and right, no side seams, with an invisible zipper in back and 1 1/2" waistband. It came together nicely.
My top, a simple front-buttoned blouse, has an underarm cowl draped on the bias. (The CF and CB edges are on the straight grain and cross grain respectively). The blouse is draped with just two square pieces, left and right, folded in half diagonally. The bias edge forms the cowl. The fabric is slung under the arm and the cowl is formed by creating deep folds at the shoulder, held in place in the shoulder seam. The CB seam connects left and right sides. My center front seam includes extensions and facings for buttonholes and buttons.
Here's the finished garment. The simple jewel neckline is finished with bias piping.
|My designs often have a vintage feel. I could see Katherine Hepburn wearing this in the 1940s.|
I am relieved to be done with this class, though I enjoyed it a great deal. I'm resting for the balance of the day, and tomorrow and Monday will complete my tailored ladies jacket for my Ladies Tailoring class, which ends on Tuesday. Then comes a much-needed break till the end of January.
Hope you're all sewing up a storm -- any wool crepe?
Have a great day, everybody!
You can see some of my classmates' work here.