One of my goals before the end of the year is to complete a wool suit jacket for myself.
I plan to do this alongside the ladies jacket I'll be making in my Ladies Tailoring III class at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology), using the same pocket pieces and most of the same techniques we're learning this semester.
Naturally, I can't use the ladies jacket pattern from class. So I'm trying to find a men's pattern I like or tweak one that's close if not quite perfect. Up top is Butterick 2125, a vintage blazer pattern from the early Sixties. I like the ivy-style, sack-suit silhouette of the jacket (no darts in front, just a long, diagonal dart from armhole to front pocket).
As you can see in the top pic and above, the muslin I made fits me fairly well. I'm thinking, however, that it may be too retro-looking, i.e., boxy.
It's hard to identify contemporary styles because almost anything goes nowadays (except perhaps those huge Seventies lapels on loud plaid blazers, but who knows what kids find cool today). Below are some contemporary jackets, some very fitted with padded shoulders, some more of a boxy silhouette with natural shoulders.
|Brooks Brothers 1818 undarted sack blazer|
|Agnes B. 2017|
Speaking of Seventies styles, the other jacket pattern I muslined (that's a verb, right?) was Simplicity 9598, below. Not only does it have front fish-eye darts, it also has a separate side panel instead of side seams.
I'm more concerned about overall style lines than the lapels, which are easily tweaked. Here's the muslin:
I think this has potential. Don't you?
That's where things stand so far. I've made suit jackets before (check the archives under mens suit), though not of wool, and usually using the boxier sack-suit style. (More about men's suit patterns and other resources here.)
I own a lot of men's suit and blazer patterns, some vintage, some not. I prefer vintage for many reasons: less design ease, better drafting, and one-size-only patterns. (I know my pattern size, so with a one-size pattern, I don't have to trace.) When I look at in-print suit jacket and blazer patterns they generally look "off" to me, and the fact they rarely fit the model doesn't help.
|A few of my men's jacket patterns.|
Readers, which style of men's blazer do you prefer: the fitted or the boxier sack style? Any thoughts about which looks better on me?
Have a great day, everybody!
|This is actually a sack silhouette though it's cut trim.|