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Feb 18, 2015

Dress Pants Muslin -- Simplicity 4971



My third and final pair of pants for February is Simplicity 4971, a men's shirt jacket and slim pants pattern which dates from approximately 1963.

I needed to make a muslin first so I dug out an old percale bedsheet and went to work.  I already knew I'd have to shorten the rise approximately 2" and the pants length about 4".  I also added 1" to the outer edge of the back and side pieces at the top, as you can see below.  Right now my hips and my waist are approximately the same width.



I cut just the two fronts and the two backs, skipping the fly and the waistband.  The fit was good.









Yesterday I started the pants in my fashion fabric, a lightweight khaki cotton weave.





I chose matching thread from my thread stash.  I didn't feel like buying something new and there isn't much visible topstitching in these pants anyway.







Yesterday I completed the front fly and, today, the back single welt pockets, which gave me a lot of trouble.  Next time I'm going to add the pocket bag separate from cutting the welt (i.e., after).  Pulling all that fabric (the pocket bag) through from the front rarely results in a perfectly angled corner -- too many layers to clip through.





My smooth cotton fabric is not forgiving and I may add two pocket flaps to cover these up.  I know there's nothing more tedious than hearing sewers complain about their welt pockets so apologies.

I hope to finish these pants by the weekend in time to do our three-pants photo shoot (white twill, blue denim, and cotton khaki), tentatively scheduled for Sunday.  Cross your fingers the weather is mild as I'll be changing in the street, no joke.

Have a great day, everybody!

I wore my me-made suit and shirt to a Toastmaster's contest last night and won first prize in the speech evaluation competition! 

26 comments:

  1. Your fabric is very nice Peter, I have similar fabric that is cotton/lycra that I make up pants with all the time, the stretch in them means they are very comfortable to wear. I also have the same pattern and have not made the pants. I have been reluctant to make pants from the 50's and 60's since they were all very high waist ed (ie 11 inch zippers) but i will have to give it a try and shorten the rise on it. Looking forward to see you modeling of all pants in the snow and cold.

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  2. Congratulations on winning the competition! Looking forward to the modeling of the pants - hope you can keep warm!

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  3. doesn't sound like the weather will be mild. :(

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  4. I think I'm going to like the muslin version best. The flowers -- I'm thinking Spring! I hope you model them too.

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  5. I love the flowered pants, Add a finge vest and your Sonny Bono.

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  6. It's looking to be a toasty 46 F on Sunday, but rainy. This is probably old news, but I lost my fear of welt pockets with David Coffin's pants book.

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  7. Congrats on your Toastmasters win! I would finish off the flower pants and use them when you want to rebel at the weather!

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  8. Congrats on winning the competition. I also use thrifted sheets to make Muslims for first time patterns. Way cheaper than actual Muslim and works just as well.

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  9. So now that you own the Toastmaster's club's souls....does that mean the vlog might make an occasional appearance? I so enjoyed you singing and Michael playing..... Lovely pants as always BTW, and long live floral percale muslins!! Or 'presale Muslims' as spellchecker would have it....

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  10. No,no,no Peter, I prefer the bed sheet pants - so 70s discoesque!

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  11. You look fabulous in your suit!! And I rather like the floral pants . . . although I suppose the fabric is too lightweight for a actual pair.

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  12. These are rad pants, but the muslin version is totally awesome!

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  13. Congratulation on winning the competition! I'm looking forward to seeing the final product. You chose a lovely pattern and beautiful fabric.

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  14. Haven't popped in on your blog lately! So, you're going to make the capri version when it gets warm, right? Right?

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    Replies
    1. Ha! I don't think so, but you never know...

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  15. Who ya gonna call? Toastmasters! (old family joke, sorry, we're debate nerds). I just bought those sheets for a muslin for a shirt that turned into the shirt, and damn but they are fetching as trousers!

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  16. What's do you think of the 'man-pris' on the pattern envelope?

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    1. I so agree! Congrats on Toastmasters win. Love the suit and the flowered muslin.

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    2. So floral man-pris for your next trip to P-town is out of the question?

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  17. I give you permission to whine and moan all you need and want over welt pockets! Yours look fine.
    And congratulations on winning the toastmasters. Sounds like it was fun.

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  18. Congratulations on the competition! I think you should sew your muslin properly and finish it; it would look great on a beach somewhere.

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  19. well done on toast masters,

    that's for brightening the day with the muslin, seems a waste not to make up and wear while creating something else..
    J

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  20. Nice garments congrats on winning first place!

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  21. When I feel a bit down I read your blog and feel better. You're sewing a quick rate these days.

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  22. Oh, I was going to remark... About the darts on the rear pockets. On casual trousers like these I run a line of top-stitching on the dart (since it is folded to one side) for strength. Maybe you did that already?

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