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Jul 8, 2014

Finishing My Suit Jacket + NOT a Unisex Pattern!



Do you want to laugh?

I just received McCall's 8536 (above), a vintage Willi Smith pattern from 1983.  I picked it up because it includes a really cool collarless shirt design with pockets in the front yoke seams: it's so rare to find something unusual in a men's shirt pattern.   It also makes long pants, shorts, and a very Miami Vice-y unlined jacket.





So I'm looking at patterns in my size on Etsy yesterday and I stumble up this -- McCall's 8535.  Look familiar? 



Anything different from 8536?  OK, maybe --maybe -- the pants are cut differently.  I wonder why they didn't just call it a unisex pattern.  Maybe by 1983 the term unisex had lost its cachet.  

I also received my early Thirties dress pattern, the one with no identifying label.  (I'm figuring it's a mail order pattern.)   All the instructions are on the inside of the envelope.  I think it's a very pretty dress; not sure if I'll make it anytime soon -- we'll see.







In other news, my jacket it basically finished, thank goodness.  Tomorrow I hope to buy buttons and, since I'll be in the Garment District, I may spring for a couple of Jonathan Embroidery buttonholes.  I don't know why I expected this jacket to be a walk in the park -- it wasn't.  I spent two days just hand sewing all the hems and inserting the lining. 



I believe I still have enough fabric to make a pair of matching pants and I may use that Williwear pattern for those.  My other option is to make pants cut like jeans using Kwik Sew 3504, which would be easier.  Either way, I need this to be finished soon: I'm getting tired of navy blue.

And that's it!

Am I the only one making a suit in July?

Have a great day, everybody!



18 comments:

  1. Interesting that they are even numbered sequentially. I really like that shirt pattern.

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  2. That shirt pattern is really cool. I think I would add a band or Nehru type of collar just to keep the sun at bay or colder weather when that season is upon us. But having said that, it would be fun in a gauzy type fabric for the beach. Lots of possibilities there for stripes, checks, combos. sew & tell.

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  3. That 30s dress is great and so is the shirt pattern! I loooove the matching mens/womens patterns - hilarious. If it doesn't work for you, it can always be added to your identical cousin's amazing wardrobe!

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  4. Interesting. I was such a huge Williwear fan in high school. My guess is that the women's pants have a high fitted waist, so yes, cut differently.

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  5. Maybe make some walking shorts to match the navy jacket?

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  6. Love this pattern! Willi Wear made awesome patterns. Long live Miami Vice!!

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  7. Hilarious - you can share the 8536 makes with Cathy.

    Looking forward to the jacket reveal, but quietly hoping that 30s dress comes to life - I just love it.

    Spud.

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  8. So look at the colours of the shirt, pants and jacket.... all similar and a bit too close for comfort for my liking... you can only hope the pants have a different cut!

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  9. Peter, have you ever visited the blog "Unsung Sewing Patterns"? The blogger specializes in early patterns, particularly for utilitarian garments. She may be able to tell you a bit more about your 1930s pattern.

    http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/

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  10. I vote for making the Kwik Sew pants. I think that, in addition to being easier to make, you'd get more wear out of them. And the dress? Gorgeous.

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  11. Peter, I'm also In suit mode. I'm feeling like I've basted to the moon and back. Yours is looking great. The binding is a very classy touch, and I love it with the red. What ever pant you make is sure to be fabulous. Looking forward to the reveal!

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  12. Hey Peter -
    If you use the Williwear pants pattern I can't wait to see how it turns out - I once bought a Williwear pattern many years ago and made the elastic waist pants......what a disaster that turned out to be!! I swear the pattern had to cut for a man at least 6' 2" they were so voluminous I could have fit in one leg!! LOL! I was stunned since I'm 5'7" like you and I never made any of his pants again! I'm dying to see the cut on those!

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  13. Willi! Haven't heard that name in a while. I'm sure the pants are not unisex, and besides it is more revenue to sell two patterns.

    How DO you get so much sewn?

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  14. That's a cool idea for the shirt pockets. It is a shame his clothing line has gone so downhill. I used to work at the store that still has his line as a whole department and I would try them on becuase they looked cute, but they were SO badly made/patterned.

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  15. I was thinking of warning you in a previous post that doing a partial lining will only increase your sewing time, immensely! Bagging the lining completely, machine stitching the entire lining, would go very quickly (if you have made the correct pattern changes), but would not look as interesting as the partial you have done.

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  16. I had that Willi Smith pattern, sewing it for my husband, and it IS cool.

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  17. Just love the early 30's pattern.
    Yes, how do you get so much sewing done. Amazing.

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  18. How funny! I bought this (http://stores.islandersewing.com/mens-classic-sport-shirt/) pattern a few months ago because I thought the design was so new and interesting. Who knew?!

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