Friends, a quick update: I have set aside my shawl-collared knit
cardigan project and plunged head-first into my double-breasted suit jacket project.
I'll still make the cardigan, but as soon as I opened Butterick 5384 (above), I knew I wanted to muslin it immediately. I still have a ton of that vintage gold toile de jouy fabric I found at the flea market, so I'm going to use that.
The benefit is that, if it fits, I'll have an outfit ready for my next gay wedding!
Perhaps you remember my toile culottes experiment from a few months ago.
After I cut the paper pattern for the jacket, I decided to pin fit it.
I knew I needed to take roughly 1" off the length, so I drew a line 1" below the "shorten or lengthen here" line and folded down. Then I realized that the double-breasted jackets I liked best have a high waistline -- i.e., the narrowest post on the jacket -- and I wanted mine higher. It pulls the eye up, imo, making the wearer look taller.
So I unpinned the pattern and drew a line 1" above the fold line. The difference (see below) is not tremendous, but it does raise the waist 2" from where it would have been the other way.
Anyway, yesterday I cut my toile and started sewing. I'm not hand tailoring this but I will interface the collar, facings, and hems. The toile is already quite sturdy.
As you can see, it's very fitted looking and I haven't even sewn the front darts yet. I changed the angle of the lapel to make it look more classic and less Seventies. It also raises the eye.
I have plenty of toile de jouy left over for matching pants, so I'm hoping this turns out to be wearable and I want the full suit effect (which I think I do). Another nice thing about this pattern is that it includes pieces for lining.
And that's it! I didn't buy anything at the flea market this morning but there were some nice sewing machines for sale on the upper level of the garage.
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!