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May 10, 2014

PETER PRAYS! "Please make my double-breasted suit muslin WEARABLE!"



Friends, a quick update: I have set aside my shawl-collared knit cardigan project and plunged head-first into my double-breasted suit jacket project.



I'll still make the cardigan, but as soon as I opened Butterick 5384 (above), I knew I wanted to muslin it immediately.  I still have a ton of that vintage gold toile de jouy fabric I found at the flea market, so I'm going to use that.

The benefit is that, if it fits, I'll have an outfit ready for my next gay wedding!

 

Perhaps you remember my toile culottes experiment from a few months ago.



After I cut the paper pattern for the jacket, I decided to pin fit it.





I knew I needed to take roughly 1" off the length, so I drew a line 1" below the "shorten or lengthen here" line and folded down.  Then I realized that the double-breasted jackets I liked best have a high waistline -- i.e., the narrowest post on the jacket -- and I wanted mine higher.  It pulls the eye up, imo, making the wearer look taller.



So I unpinned the pattern and drew a line 1" above the fold line.  The difference (see below) is not tremendous, but it does raise the waist 2" from where it would have been the other way.



Anyway, yesterday I cut my toile and started sewing.  I'm not hand tailoring this but I will interface the collar, facings, and hems.  The toile is already quite sturdy.



As you can see, it's very fitted looking and I haven't even sewn the front darts yet.  I changed the angle of the lapel to make it look more classic and less Seventies.  It also raises the eye.







I have plenty of toile de jouy left over for matching pants, so I'm hoping this turns out to be wearable and I want the full suit effect (which I think I do).  Another nice thing about this pattern is that it includes pieces for lining.

And that's it!  I didn't buy anything at the flea market this morning but there were some nice sewing machines for sale on the upper level of the garage.



Have a great day, everybody! 

22 comments:

  1. YESSSSSSSSSS i join you in prayer, i must see this....

    any pfaffs hanging round the market today? should i beat feet?

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  2. I would wear wide leg white linen trousers, or not wide with a matching gold stripe. And fun shoes

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  3. Is it just me, or is anyone else getting Sound of Music flashbacks from that fabric?

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  4. I used to have that pink Morse. I just gave it away to someone. Mostly because it wouldn't make a buttonhole to dave it's life. And, I have like ten sewing machines. Sadly, I still dream of a white Featherweight.

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    Replies
    1. Between you and me, the black Featherweights are better.

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    2. From what I've read, that's a myth.

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  5. I'm in a similar mindset with my weekend project. All I can say (vis a vis this) is thank the Lord you don't have tits.

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  6. Love love love it. I m working on a jacket muslin and was thinking of using the same toile in red with red check for contrast on the under collar, etc. I am watching with intense anticipation.

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  7. WOw you passed up that little mint Green? featherweight at the Flea. Love your reading about your sewing journey...

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  8. Of course you want the full suit effect! Go full on Sound of Music and spread the joy. I think it's going to be typically fabulous (by which I mean, typical of your projects).

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  9. Looks like it will fit beautifully.

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  10. The shape does look quite promising and exciting, which I guess is a big compliment coming from me, because I'm usually not very excited by double-breasted jackets. (Double-breasted overcoats are a whole different matter. I think I never commented, but I love your peacoat.)

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  11. Love it! Also, I am surprised how fitted it is. That toile is fun, too.

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  12. The muslin is looking good. I can see it with matching trousers, seriously. It will work.

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  13. I am looking forward to the whole suit. It has a decidedly 18th century look to it.

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  14. Seriously loving this already and looking forward to the finished article. If only more blokes made an effort to look this good....

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  15. Interesting! I see (hear) the Sound of Music reference but I'm also getting a strong 1960s reproduction Louis VI upholstery feel. Have you considered going full-on retro including cream-colored piping? Good length considerations.

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  16. I may be shunned for this but I think that the jacked could be another 2.. 3cm shorter.

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    Replies
    1. It will be hemmed at least an inch.

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    2. Damn phones and their tiny screens.

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  17. This is going to be fabulous!!

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