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Jan 19, 2014

And the winner is...Miyake!

A decision had to be made and I made it: my first big project of 2014 will be this coat, Vogue 2038, designed by Issey Miyake.

There were other possibilities, but I really wanted to use my leopard print knit while it was still winter and this seems like the right project for it.  The texture of the fabric is very much like a felted wool flannel (one of the recommended fabrics on the envelope).  It has very little stretch, it's sturdy, and it drapes beautifully.  

This Miyake design, which dates from 1997, is oversized.  Look at the size of the back pattern piece (which is cut on the fold, though I may create a center back seam).  The total back width will measure 47" at the hem.

I toyed with the idea of narrowing the back to make it more like the back of this vintage boiled wool Miyake men's coat currently selling on Etsy.

Basically, the flare would be removed so that the back hung straight.  I can see this working with melton, but with my knit, I think the wider, more flowing back will look just fine.  Look at the drape.  The fabric hangs cape-like, though it's not heavy.  It's going to be more like a sweater coat.

Here are the major pattern pieces lined up to give you a sense of how wide this garment will be -- remember, this is only half the coat.  Between the front and back pieces there's a side piece that becomes a sleeve gusset toward the top.  It's a kooky coat!

I'm going for a unisex look and -- don't tell anyone yet-- I'm toying with the idea of a Who Wears It Best? photo shoot featuring me and my cousin Cathy.  Wouldn't that be fun?

I found a photo on Pinterest of a Miyake coat that looks almost identical to Vogue 2038, on a male model.

Even though -- I'm sorry -- it hangs like a choir robe on him, it's validating to see a man wearing such a similar design.  There's a lot of topstitching detail on my coat which should look cool (if it reads).  I will probably skip the welt pockets, since this is a knit, and go for oversized patch pockets.  I like the way, on the Miyake men's coat on Etsy, the facings are topstitched down to create decorative seam lines.  The toggle-type leather closure is an elegant touch.

Readers, I'm cautiously optimistic about this project.  It's fun to make something a little out of my comfort zone.  A busy week ahead.

Have a great day, everybody!


  1. The pattern is great, so glad that you have decided to make it. And that fabric is perfect for Jungle January 2--grrrr! Can't wait to see who wears it best.

  2. The pattern looks really good! Is that leopard print fabric heavy enough for a coat, though? It would be a nuisance if you found you had to line it to get it to hang properly.

  3. My favorite coat! I made one, and chronicled the process on my personal blog, although I did eventually make a DRASTIC button change, that made the coat just perfect. I wear it all the time now.

    1. Yes, yes -- I mentioned it last week. I love that coat!

  4. Better get a move on before the weather gets to warm! (I live in hope.)

  5. As a male, and a (role) model yourself, are you ever annoyed by the practice of calling models "male models"?

  6. I can't wait to see the finished garment. Peter, you continue to inspire.


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