May 9, 2012
So much to cover today, readers, so let's get to it.
Yesterday I quickly stitched up a muslin of my Style 3263 slip pattern, which you'll recall most closely resembles the original dress my SIL Prachee requested way back when.
Prachee tried it on and wasn't crazy about the shape. Her hips are slightly wider than her shoulders and I don't think she finds the A-line shape flattering. (She's 5'4" and I think the A-line flatters a longer torso.)
QUESTION: Do you think an A-line disguises slightly wider hips or accentuates them? How about A-lines on short(ish) women -- yes or no?
I may still fiddle with the muslin and taper it below the hips. I will also take it in an inch on either side. I wonder if I should try a size 10 pattern, as I had to make the same adjustment to the Vogue sloper.
We also agreed that it doesn't read very dressy; it's more of a sundress. My original plan was to make this version (as per the directions) cut parallel to the selvage and another version cut on the bias to see how the bias version would compare, but I ran out of time.
Anyway, Prachee now prefers the original sheath dress to the slip dress. I put two 4" vertical darts beneath the bust on the muslin I made last week, and I intend to make them a few inches longer. We also worked on narrowing the shoulder.
She finds the fit comfortable. We may add the neckline from the Style pattern to the sheath, which, you may recall, started out as a Size 12 Vogue A-line sloper.
Meanwhile, I ironed the raw silk that bled all over my towels last week, and experimented with vertical darts. Much to my surprise, these came out beautiful! (The raw silk has a highly visible horizontal (the weft) weave; I was concerned the darts wouldn't press flat) Laundered, the raw silk is much softer than before and much less smelly.
Now the question is lining and/or underlining; I'm assuming you know the difference. The silk is semi-transparent.
Should I underline or line, or both? I'm inclined to just line it. I tried putting some silk charmeuse behind the raw silk and it gave the fabric a much more drapey look and feel.
QUESTION: If I line, how about facings? Should the lining attach to the neck and armhole facings or should the facings go over the already-attached lining? I may research some contemporary sheath dress patterns and see how this is normally done. Most vintage dress patterns do not call for a lining, but the opera coat I made from a vintage housecoat pattern had the neck facing attached over the lining, as opposed to the lining being attached to the (raw) edge of the facing.
Lining the dress means I don't have to finish my raw seam allowances, whereas with underlining I would (since each underlined piece is treated as a single layer of fabric), is that correct?
Finally, what should I line with? I was thinking Bemberg rayon, as silk would be too hot. Thoughts?
Thanks for your help and have a great day, everybody!