Readers, the shirt is finished and yesterday, with Michael's able assistance, I got to play fashion model!
I am now thinking the lavender cotton shirt fabric, which I had originally identified as lawn, is in fact voile. Or gauze. Or something. As you can see in the photos, it's slightly transparent, loosely woven, and very soft. In fact, the softness and loose weave resulted in the one (minor) disappointment in the shirt construction.
Not wanting to deal with flat-felled seams on such soft fabric, I'd planned to stitch the sleeves on, serge the seam allowance, and then stitch the seam allowance down to make a mock flat-felled seam. However, even with the shirt open and flat (before I'd stitched the sleeve and torso closed), I was unable to stitch down the seam allowance without puckering -- it's that stretchy and soft. This wasn't a tension issue, though it caused some!
I completed one side, and then ripped it out (gently); traces of which are slightly visible. Has this ever happened to you?
Anyway, with a shirt this casual and summery, it's fine, and it's not like I'm going to be hurling baseballs in it or anything. The shoulder seam is perfectly secure.
Here are a few more construction details. You can view the whole folder of construction pics here.
I interfaced the collar stand with knit weft interfacing on just the outer layer. For the collar itself I used an additional layer of my fashion fabric (I was short on interfacing). This is one of my better collar stands.
I topstitched all the way around the stand; sometimes I skip that step. With the exception of the buttonholes, I sewed the shirt entirely on my Featherweight, using a #9 needle. Anything larger would occasionally snag the fabric.
I finished the sleeves and side seams with French seams, stitching at 2/8" wrong sides together, trimming down to 1/8 inch, pressing, and then stitching right sides together at roughly 3/8". I like the result -- clean.
The buttonholes, which I made on my 15-91 with my buttonholer attachment, aren't gorgeous. I chose not to interface the front left button placket and it could have used a little more heft for prettier buttonholes. Do you see how the fabric puckers along the width of the placket? Still, they're stable and not particularly noticeable. (I really should clip those stray threads...)
And that's it.
Here's a little slide show of me modeling the shirt. No sailors, I'm afraid.
As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image. In Picasa, click on the title of the folder, and then in the left hand corner, "Slideshow."
Happy Sunday, everybody -- and to all your fathers out there, Happy Father's Day!
I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns. I also sew for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!