Mar 13, 2013

Finishing the Jacket, Starting the Matching Shorts



Readers, when I recommend a product on this blog it's because I genuinely use it and like it.  So when I say that Collins two-sided Wonder Tape made my life a whole lot easier these last two days, I mean it.   Are you familiar with it?



I bought a new roll on Monday because my old roll seemed to have dried out and lost its stickiness.  I think they've improved this tape since the last time I purchased it.  If I remember correctly, it had a paper coating on both sides, or maybe not.  Anyway, the new stuff has an exposed sticky side -- the outside -- so it's best to keep the tape in the reusable plastic package it comes in so it doesn't adhere to anything in your notion drawer.

I used the Wonder Tape to attach my jacket zipper (to both outer fabric and facings) and to hold down the waistband of my matching shorts before topstitching.  It's not cheap -- I paid $4.79 for my roll -- but it's definitely a handy thing to have around, especially when you're working with fabrics that don't ease.  It's also a great way to prevent wavy zippers.


 

You stick the tape, sticky side down, on your zipper edge, and then pull off the paper to expose the second sticky side, and adhere your fabric where you need it.  Then you can stitch (from either side) without worrying about shifting.  It works great.  If you're interested in exactly how I attached the zipper, I can go into details later on.  Thank you MPB reader Jne4sl for your zipper attachment instructions -- I followed them! 

I placed fabric on tape from the right side, stitched from the wrong side, and did the same with the facing.  I still need to topstitch both layers down to prevent them from potentially getting caught in my zipper.

Here's the zipper, as it looks from the inside.

The open jacket before inserting lining (lining is attached at zipper front only).

Today I started work on the shorts.  I didn't have enough fabric to cut the full width of the two back pieces so I had to slice a bit off the pattern piece and then cut the remainder from another scrap and stitch them together (remembering to add a seam allowance to both edges).  See that extra seam below the curve?  It won't be noticeable with the shorts on.  I feel lucky that I was able to squeeze an entire second garment out of two yards of fabric!



Here's a work-in-progress shot; I think you get the idea. They're shorter than Bermudas but longer than Daisy Dukes.  It's a length that looks right on me.  I made the pockets out of my yellow nylon lining so they're extra sturdy.  All that remains to do on these is to hem them.







Remember how I said this outfit was supposed to be completed and posted on the Mood Network site on Saturday?  Well, I was wrong: it's Friday.  So tomorrow's the day I add all the necessary finishing touches to both jacket and shorts, and then sometime tomorrow or Friday morning take photos outside.  Cross your fingers for mild weather.

It's great to be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel.  This project has challenged me a lot, which is a good thing in retrospect but not so much fun while you're in the thick of it.

I hope your projects are going well and don't forget the Wonder Tape -- you never know when it might come in handy.

Have a great day, everybody!

27 comments:

  1. I tell you true: 'sticky products' like sewing tape, those spray glues that 'vanish', and wash-out fabric glues are a HUGE BOON to sewers EVERYWHERE. They make things SO MUCH SIMPLER, and as you saw with the zipper, prevent a lot of very common sewing problems , like "shifting" and "rippling", and so there are a lot of people today with hair still on their heads and sporting normal blood-pressure levels thanks to these products!

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  2. Hmmm I think I need some of that wonder tape, I am so bad at zippers..always takes me about 3 times to get them right, esp invisible ones grrr...

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  3. Zip details please! Looks great.

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  4. I'm very interested in how you did the zipper... considering I was bribed into making a jacket for my brother!

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  5. The outfit is great. I enjoy seeing the quality workmanship in the jacket. Beautiful. Rhonda M.

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  6. Thanks for showing the shorts with the extra seam up the back. I thought that I was the only one who "added" onto fabric to make it fit a pattern piece. Love both pieces. Can't wait to see them on the Mood website.

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  7. WELL DONE!!!
    that's difficult fabric to work with, and you did a beautiful job!

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  8. great work on that zip! can't wait to see the finished ensemble :-)

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  9. Great job! I generally use the Wonder Tape to do exactly what you did and it sure helps. Looking forward to seeing the finished pieces.

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  10. I've never heard of Wonder Tape - I wonder if they have it in Australia??? I think I need some, I can see it being the most handy thing in my notions draw!!

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  11. Um wonder tape? What? I've installed so many zippers and never even thought of this! And I'm someone who is not afraid to use Elmer's school glue to deal with an interim seam flattening issue (like bias tape making) cause it totally washes out too. How did I not know about wonder tape?

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  12. I <3 wonder tape.

    Recently used it to set a godet in an underarm sleeve, added as a fix for fitting purposes after all seams were sewn. No basting needed!

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  13. I use wonder tape for attaching ribbons and trims to my kids' clothing. It's the best invention pretty much ever! I hadn't thought to use it for zippers (duh!) but now I'm definitely going to.

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  14. Your garments are the perfect use for the fabric, Marc take note!

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  15. Looking great! Beautifully finished inside. Swoon

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  16. I just love this jacket! I can't wait to see it finished.

    Hey, keep the Wonder Tape in a ziplock bag and your dry-tape days will be over.

    Steam-a-Seam is also pretty fantastic.

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  17. I think that basting the zipper to the fabric would help if wonder tape is not available.

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  18. Wow, I really think this jacket looks great! I use wonder tape for zippers, but my zippers still don't look that good, so I would really appreciate a review of how you put in that zip. Can't wait to see the finished ensemble.

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  19. Wonder Tape is on my shopping list now! I've used double-sided tape for affixing zippers before, but if I mistakenly stitched through it my needle would get all gummed up. Not nice. I didn't know about this product.

    I salute you for staying the course! I know what you mean about the challenge being good but not necessarily fun. It's worth it, though. Looking forward to the unveiling!

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  20. I need to get some of that genius stuff. I always have to re-do my zippers at least once!

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  21. oh geez, it's cold out for shorts, Peter! Good luck with the photoshoot!

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  22. So far, I've not been impressed by Wonder Tape. Opened a new package and it did not stick at all. If they will age in the package, maybe stocking up on 50% off notions sale isn't such a bargain.

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  23. HI, ! am an avid male sewer in London and love the blog!I am always impressed with the quality of your construction and the finish you get on your garments. The shorts look great! what pattern did you use for them??

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    1. It's a vintage 70's pattern, Simplicity 5044. (If you Google it you'll see what it looks like.)

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  24. Hi there. I was able to get this magical tape that disappears with water from Amazon. It was under a different name(not from Collins). It came in a resealable sandwich style bag and it keeps the tape from losing its wonder. The manufacturer is Hotop and it came as 2 rolls of 1/4" wide 22yards each for $7.98! A great deal and it works terrific.

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