If you follow me on Instagram, you know that two weeks ago I tried on a very cute Comme des Garcons jacket at Dover Street Market and decided to make something (somewhat) similar.
Here's the jacket.
I liked the fit and the way the jacket zipped up on a horizontal angle. I found a vintage Thirties pattern on eBay that I thought I could use as a jumping off place. Yes, it's for pajamas, but the top had possibilities.
I was all set to make a muslin out of an old sheet but decided to use some inexpensive black denim and see if I could make something wearable right off the bat. The denim is super-stiff and, since I'm not planning to machine launder the jacket, I didn't prewash it. I know I said I don't wear black, but this is more like a charcoal gray.
I picked up a black separating zipper at Sil Thread in the Garment District and had it cut down to the size I needed. I re-drafted the front right pattern piece so that I could insert one side of the zipper into the middle of it, running up to the right shoulder (like you'd find in a motorcycle jacket). The other side of the zipper will be attached to the front left lapel edge.
The basic shape of the jacket is like this white leather jacket (below), only with a zipper instead of buttons, and no epaulets (and like this one, single, rather than double-breasted).
Here's how things look so far. I haven't added the facings or overcollar yet, or the sleeves.
If things still look promising after the "turn of the cloth" (the point at which I attach the facings and turn them to the inside of the jacket), I'll add two front pockets, either welt or patch. I don't plan to line the jacket and I hate visible pocket bags, so maybe patch pockets is the way to go.
It's fun to just jump into something without much planning. Keeps things, fresh, know what I mean?
I'm hoping to make matching jeans too; we'll see how much black denim is left.
And that's it.
Have a great day, everybody!
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I like everything in this post: the CdG coat, the pajamas pattern, your in-progress denim, and the white leather jacket. I often see jeans that I'd like to wear but I seldom see denim outerwear that I would want for myself. I think that's about to change.
ReplyDeleteLooks good so far, but I would have pre-washed the denim.
ReplyDeleteLooks good so far, I like the idea of the zipper angling to one side. When you mention 'turn of the cloth ' my understanding is it's not an action that you do, but an allowance that you make in tailoring. Like making an allowance for 'turn of cloth' at a collar edge. Sherryl has a good explanation here..http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.ie/2010/06/tricks-of-trade-turn-of-cloth-allowance.html?m=1
ReplyDeleteFearless sewing! I'm sure this jacket will be amazing.
ReplyDeleteSuch a visionary! Pajamas into a denim jacket - that's clarity and moxy!
ReplyDeleteI'm with patsijean, a pre-wash, because it looks as if you will have the perfect topper for those silver jeans (not that I'm obsessing, or anything).
I'm amazed how you keep your ' sewing mojo' in high gear on a consistent basis.......I lay something out and leave it in the floor for weeks! You're lucky that you live some place where you can find inexpensive denim.......it costs a king's ransom up here in the land of the "Connecticut Yankee"!
ReplyDeleteHello (pause) dear.
DeleteBeen to your blog, and well, I guess from your comment only a home inspection will disclose the progress made.
Am I not confessing my laziness? Maybe I can stoke my creative engine and get something done over the next three day that I'm off. I just finished some repair work on a very heavy leather jacket.......and trust me that was no picnic in the park!! If I didn't have a 201 I couldn't have pulled it off! It was like a wrestling match!!! But for the first time someone paid me more than I asked for (I always underprice myself) in appreciation of my efforts. I'll tell you this however............I'll never do it again in my lifetime!! It was hell!!!!
DeleteA 201 going against "heavy leather" might be considered a boxer "punching above his weight". I have a Pfaff 130 and a Bernina 910 for clothing, and a Sailrite for the heavy stuff. I prefer the Sailrite for cuffing blue jeans. The Sailrite has a 150 watt motor and is geared down by half for extra punching power, and a 6 pound (?) flywheel. No heavy lifting.
DeleteWell (he reaches about his now headless torso), a new one will grow back in time.
DeleteCongratulations on wrestling with black leather and winning.
Luv the 201, but now I'm curious about Sailrites.
The hardest pat was getting the jacket under the presser foot, I used a leather needle so the machine had no problem piercing it.....managing it was very tough because of the weight of the skin. Kenmores have a high presser foot lift than Singers, but the one Kenmore I own wouldn't have been a match!
DeleteI just checked the underfoot clearance on my Sailrite LSZ (zig zag), about 1/4". I've forced ten layers of resinated 7.5 oz dacron sailcloth and two layers of webbing under the foot and sewed the corners of main sails. . . When sewing heavy boat canvas and sails, I generally stand on one foot and work the pedal with the other foot, so I can muscle the cloth into position. I use a magnetic fence to guide the cloth. (Magnetic fences come in weak and strong. Strong is best for heavy stuff.) LS (straight stitch only) and LSZ (zig-zag, needed for stretchy sails, but not for canvas) available from Sailrite.com. Used eBay, go about $350 to $800, depending on options. Both are walking foot. Clones available for less (not much less all decked out) but no support. I've sewn Kevlar with mine, though it ruins needles pretty quickly.
DeleteI've seen Sailrite machine in action and they are remarkable!!
DeleteIt's this sort of 'seat of the pants' process that usually yields amazing results. Looking forward to more
ReplyDeleteLOL, I know exactly how Mary Lou felt, been there : ). Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours Peter. Cant wait to see how this jacket turns out. I like the zipper on yours better than the inspiration jacket. The one of the inspiration jacket almost looked too big and wobbly.
ReplyDeleteYes I noticed that Peter's zipper has a crisper line to it. The original jacket looks like it needed more careful interfacing.
DeletePeter, I love your black denim jacket idea! Who knew pjs could be the pattern block? Can't wait to see the final garment. P
ReplyDeleteCan't wait to see the finished project. And I love seeing the process too. I think welt pockets would look better than patch, and you could the pocket bags under the facings so they wouldn't flap around. Unless it's just having them there at all that you don't like, then do some nifty patch pockets for sure, with lots of topstitching.
ReplyDeleteFYI--your zipper is "vertical"--the "horizon/horizontal" is flat/level...and the jacket is cool!
ReplyDelete