tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post7970026040968193282..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: SIL Dress -- New Muslin! + Lining vs. UnderliningPeter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger52125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-79714097787894942782012-05-20T13:21:39.595-04:002012-05-20T13:21:39.595-04:00I'm 5'2" and the A-line is one of my ...I'm 5'2" and the A-line is one of my favorite shapes.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-2351956605640738022012-05-18T12:34:44.607-04:002012-05-18T12:34:44.607-04:00In 1992, I wrote an article titled "Flat Lini...In 1992, I wrote an article titled "Flat Lining" for THREADS magazine that illustrates the technique mentioned above. Flat lining with a Hong Kong finish is still a favorite technique. See THREADS #12, Aug/Sept 1992, pages 59 & 59. This is what ReadyThreadSew is describing. You would still need a facing for neck/sleeve, but that could be a bias tape facing of the lining fabric, and you would need to think out how to handle the shoulder seam. I would sew the garment shoulder seams first (press, etc.) then sew the lining shoulder seam (there will be a bit of a twist to sew this seam). You could sew in some interfacing first if the fabric requires it. Then add the facing however you choose.patsijeanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10362426384481772370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-11122783419330863102012-05-11T11:25:03.570-04:002012-05-11T11:25:03.570-04:00We just did a piece with a raw silk/linen blend, a...We just did a piece with a raw silk/linen blend, and the fraying that you experienced with this before is NOTHING in the face of the aggressive fraying this fabric is displaying - especially after being worn+washed (and we prewashed it, too). Serging helps, but is not a cure-all. However, the pieces that are underlined (it's a jacket, and it's all but 2 pieces that were underlined) are surviving WAY, WAY better than the two pieces that were not. Just a data point.Nikkihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16313822819931138439noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-4526848215375802782012-05-10T13:17:51.045-04:002012-05-10T13:17:51.045-04:00You're so right!You're so right!scorpioninbluehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12004830986247178040noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-81393076321577928942012-05-10T10:20:25.829-04:002012-05-10T10:20:25.829-04:00Excellent point, Urbanite!Excellent point, Urbanite!Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-31823074156167081692012-05-10T09:45:18.874-04:002012-05-10T09:45:18.874-04:00How tacky is it to reply to my own comment? So so...How tacky is it to reply to my own comment? So sorry, but I did leave out two things. 1. The original dress is almost a sheath. There only a slight flare down to the hem. The pattern appears have a wider flare. 2. The drape of the silk for an a-line is everything. If it's quite fluid, that's a plus. If it's a stiffer silk with a lot of body, I'd err on the side of the sheath. The muslin accentuates the a-line because it's stiffer.unoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-61124158228166163222012-05-10T09:36:55.127-04:002012-05-10T09:36:55.127-04:00With a similar silhouette, my go-to is always the ...With a similar silhouette, my go-to is always the sheath shape: fitted a bit through the waist and tapered a bit from waist to hem. Even the unfitted sheath is a better showcase for her!Urbanitenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-53780825118014724832012-05-10T08:53:50.429-04:002012-05-10T08:53:50.429-04:00What's sad is that a badly made garment can ta...What's sad is that a badly made garment can take just as much work! There are no guarantees of a successful outcome.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-34553343877480862112012-05-10T08:48:32.341-04:002012-05-10T08:48:32.341-04:00Yes and it also shows how much is involved underne...Yes and it also shows how much is involved underneath to achieve what you want. On a side note,so many non-sewists don't have an inkling on the level of work that goes into a well made garment.....they think it's just a cut and sew process and nothing more. Some even have the gall to tell you how easy it would be to sew whatever they want! Those types deserve a good "Joan Crawford backhand"!!!!scorpioninbluehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12004830986247178040noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-84584174445629327172012-05-10T07:23:50.783-04:002012-05-10T07:23:50.783-04:00I'm with the two comments that suggested a cot...I'm with the two comments that suggested a cotton-silk blend for underlining if you want the dress to drape softly. I've just discovered this fabric and it's lovely- has a soft sheen and is nicely slippery but not so slippery that it's hard to cut and sew. Your posts on this project are reminding me just how many decisions we make whenever we 'just run up a little dress or shirt' and how we should all be very proud of ourselves for our expertise!Cleverclogsnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-66929882358361543512012-05-09T22:39:56.110-04:002012-05-09T22:39:56.110-04:00I am only 5 foot (and slightly pear shaped) and I ...I am only 5 foot (and slightly pear shaped) and I find that an A-line dress flatters me if it accentuates the smallest part under the bust quite heavily and then flares out a bit. I feel that the purple muslin is not tight enough under her bust and not wide enough to skim over her tummy and hips.<br /><br />I know this isn't actually a helpful comments so I am looking forward to seeing this dress develop.Giggleshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08687447086361922862noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-10515102124040428622012-05-09T20:38:18.261-04:002012-05-09T20:38:18.261-04:00The one downside to asking for advice. ;)The one downside to asking for advice. ;)Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-32506471239855612972012-05-09T20:33:34.421-04:002012-05-09T20:33:34.421-04:00hmm, I just read through some of the other comment...hmm, I just read through some of the other comments. There is enough here to set anyone's head spinning! <br /><br />Good on you for making a dress for your SIL!! It sounds like a fun time :Da little sewinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18086285440873869055noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-24397793618709839512012-05-09T20:30:06.658-04:002012-05-09T20:30:06.658-04:00The answer is it depends. The fabric looks and so...The answer is it depends. The fabric looks and sounds like it needs an underlining, to keep it stable. The hand of the underlining, combined with the hand of the fashion fabric is what you will end up with. Just guessing, I think China silk would be good because it is a lot more stable than your silk and it has a very subtle hand. Silk crepe de chine is probably too loosy-goosey for this. And, yes, ideally you'd line it, too.<br />Facings are nice - they add stability and perhaps durability. I wouldn't generalize that they are good or bad - it depends on the project. I agree your SIL can wear something quite fitted and look fab. If the A-line looks dumpy, peg the skirt to be narrower at the knee. My sister is 6'1" and I am doing that alteration on a dress for her. So much sexier. I don't think it is a height thing - it is a proportion thing. Everything is relative.a little sewinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18086285440873869055noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-7748723814492776442012-05-09T19:49:34.737-04:002012-05-09T19:49:34.737-04:00I have some dresses from japan, and their method o...I have some dresses from japan, and their method of lining is more like what Peter is suggesting. In these, they've sewn the lining to the facing like you'd sew parts of a bodice together.<br /><br />That said, I have no real input as to lining vs interlining, just mentioning that Ive seen it done both ways.Elizabeth Ghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01784003485622272389noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-47622022405933394282012-05-09T19:47:02.364-04:002012-05-09T19:47:02.364-04:00Very timely topic, as we just found a silk windfal...Very timely topic, as we just found a silk windfall at charity shops, raw, and Thai. Have been afraid to cut and sew. I detest facings, and usually do self bindings, or silk bindings, which show as trim, or are inside. A wonderful Armani pantsuit we nabbed at a charity shop has these, but also the neck, etc. are stabilized under by a light cotton BIAS tape. I am investigating stabilizing seamlines, at neck, etc. Also have a roll of very, very narrow twill tape. I prefer the unlined, and not underlined. But then, I'm "damaged", due to that wool A-line dress with jewell neck all underlined in heavy Pellon my mother made me in 1963. I like my fabrics "natural", come as they are.... Cathie, in Quebec.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-74110859006348113642012-05-09T19:38:51.349-04:002012-05-09T19:38:51.349-04:00I recently took a class on sewing with silk and th...I recently took a class on sewing with silk and the teacher's advice was to avoid China Silk (aka Habotai). It is the most unruly silk, slippery, likes to morph and pucker. I think silk Crepe de chine is easiest to work with. Silk charmeuse feels wonderful agains the skin.BeckyMchttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07858460068535872136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-73052342780102010782012-05-09T18:46:30.604-04:002012-05-09T18:46:30.604-04:00If I was making this dress; I would underline it, ...If I was making this dress; I would underline it, line it and use facing.<br />Underlining is use to support and give structure to a garment and FABRID. In this case, using raw silk, you need the underlining TO SUPPORT it.<br /><br />Raw silk as well as Shantung and Doupioni, has an uneven weave that needs support to prevent tearing while wearing the garment. I would use silk organza.<br /><br />Lining, would make the body move freely without disturbing the hand of the dress, as well as protect and hide inside workmanship.<br /><br />Facing, is a matter of “what you want to say about your garment” [that of course when you have lined it]. “Better dresses, Designer dress” most have facing as well as lining, it gives a clean finish to the dress as well as protects the garment [neckline and armhole]. I would use Silk China or Habotai, or any good quality “China”.<br /><br />A side note: A great Sewing Book, [I would say “the Bible”] in my opinion, is Complete Guide to Sewing by Reader’s Digest. Here you would find a clear definition on “underlining, interfacing, and interlining” was well as other sewing and fabrics related topics.<br /><br />Good luck, can’t wait to see the dress doneYAHAIRA BARRIENTOShttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15416816385056310995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-55410744172945720292012-05-09T18:39:30.304-04:002012-05-09T18:39:30.304-04:00Just my opinion, but I don't think either silh...Just my opinion, but I don't think either silhouette is the most flattering for Prachee - both hide her assets. <br /><br />Those assets are: A good bustline, a nice, neat waist, and curvy hips. <br /><br />I honestly think she'd be a perfect candidate for something more molded to her figure, particularly below the hips. The fact that she isn't tall also militates against details that flare out or stick out in any way - the only tiny women who can get away with those are those few fortunate classic-movie-star types who just happen to be tall, lean goddesses in perfect miniature. <br /><br />Think bandage dress for this figure type, or fitted dresses with that sort of silhouette. Cling is the thing. Prachee is very lucky to be able to wear that kind of look - the tall goddesses can't because it makes them look bony, and a short, fuller figure can't either, because it makes them look - well, even shorter and fuller. <br /><br />Prachee, you have a VERY NICE FIGURE. You can afford to show it off!Sandynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-37908029882258345552012-05-09T17:48:19.933-04:002012-05-09T17:48:19.933-04:00If I was making it , I would underline , use a nec...If I was making it , I would underline , use a neck facing ( with sew in woven , not fusable interfacing ) and self bind the armholes . I bought a bunch of this silk/cotton blend & it is wonderful , breathes better with the added cotton & has a lovely hand .<br /><br />http://www.ebay.com/itm/230732252512?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649bustleladyhttp://www.facebook.com/#!/arlene.terrell.1noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-15007434339965114802012-05-09T17:35:03.250-04:002012-05-09T17:35:03.250-04:00I'm pear-shaped, too, and I think A-lines are ...I'm pear-shaped, too, and I think A-lines are fine <i>as long as they are cut correctly</i>. I'm assuming you took this into account, but it's not enough for the dress to simply be able to go over the hips--it has to have as much ease as was intended so that it moves and hangs correctly, so some will have to be added over the hips. I actually think the purple/green one will look great once the bust is properly fitted (am I seeing major gape-age at the sides?). The interesting neckline is exactly what pear-shaped girls are always recommended to wear.<br /><br />The green one doesn't do much for me, but it might be because it's a solid, bright, green and the photograph isn't doing it justice. She looks like a bar of Irish Spring with legs.Little Black Carhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14313164876855565140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-8068874458817263512012-05-09T16:46:46.644-04:002012-05-09T16:46:46.644-04:00I've underlined using the faux hong kong metho...I've underlined using the faux hong kong method mentioned above. It's a very nice and clean finish! <br /><br />I agree with K-line and Testosterone and Nancy K. I'd avoid organza if I wanted the dress to drape.Cliohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05552253628640209694noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-35774199178782093012012-05-09T16:37:11.150-04:002012-05-09T16:37:11.150-04:00I think if you have very wide hips compared to sho...I think if you have very wide hips compared to shoulders/bust line A line is not the right shape to wear, but your SIL doesn't look much bigger (if at all), the princess line is perfect, gives definition to the top half and not drawing attention to the bottom. I think the other thing to think about is length, its the most important, if you get the length right you look slimmer. Most store bought dresses won't suit everyone because they will be too long etc. Don't have a hem finishing at your widest point is another rule of thumb, especially with a blouse or tshirt. I think you've got it right, the dress is lovely, just need the models approval ;) I really like the fit of the purple/green dress (A line??), the slip (plain green) looks like a bag, shapeless and does nothing for her petite shape. JMHO.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-755812486140478442012-05-09T16:20:42.080-04:002012-05-09T16:20:42.080-04:00I don't think there's anything wrong with ...I don't think there's anything wrong with a 5'4" person wearing A-line clothes. I'm 5'3" and it is my favorite silhouette as I have a medium size waist and larger hips. I'm not an expert seamstress by any stretch of the imagination but, to me, it looked like the front darts on the slip pattern were too long in that they pulled and didn't lay flat at the hips. <br /><br />As for facings and linings, I'm lazy and would make the lining, attach it wrong side to wrong side at the neck and armholes (to essentially treat it as a single piece) and then add the facings as called for in the pattern. Handstitch the facings to the lining so they don't flip out. <br /><br />Depending on the ease of the dress though, I do agree with others about the use of underlining to avoid bunching. Whatever you end up doing will look fine.Meganhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04056949323155624136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-65812713276934494162012-05-09T15:45:33.437-04:002012-05-09T15:45:33.437-04:00Thanks, Nancy. Would you say crepe de chine is pr...Thanks, Nancy. Would you say crepe de chine is preferable to China silk?Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.com