tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post3960368403846512143..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: The Ethics of the Home-Sewn Designer Knock-OffPeter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger109125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-18992559394661871212014-03-11T00:12:11.845-04:002014-03-11T00:12:11.845-04:00This one is easy for me - if you copy the creativi...This one is easy for me - if you copy the creativity of others for your own profit - that's not on! If you make one copy of an inspiring style for your own pleasure, very acceptable. You are in fact paying homage to a fab style/designer and not compromising their profits. Celebrate creatives, don't steal from them. Home sewers are not the problem, fast fashion is the problem. :)STUDIOFAROhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17525470573256425315noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-81220149825560120692014-03-05T15:56:24.254-05:002014-03-05T15:56:24.254-05:00Now that is the more interesting question, and one...Now that is the more interesting question, and one I have no answer for. Cliohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05552253628640209694noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-89440637517784328702014-03-04T15:33:52.126-05:002014-03-04T15:33:52.126-05:00Designers look to street kids, vintage fashions fo...Designers look to street kids, vintage fashions for inspiration, so a round robin is a-okay. <br /><br />I bet you would match up the comic book print more nicely in the front in your version. It bothered me that it seemed disjointed in the dressing room photo. <br /><br />I loved culottes in the 70's, nice to see them back again. would be nice to see them in charcoal or a dove gray for you, similar to your inspiration photo. Looks too girlish otherwise. The pleating on the back of the muslim seemed off, also the rise was too high?<br /><br />The toile would be nice as pillow cases or curtains.<br /><br />Like the jacket with straps, way to add some room to a too tight jacket, although may be drafty on a cool day.tesshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04162700002626998011noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-20680621540735277822014-03-02T22:32:49.236-05:002014-03-02T22:32:49.236-05:00Yes I have knocked of designer and other fashions....Yes I have knocked of designer and other fashions. Sometimes it is almost exact, usually it is merely inspired by something else and has my own unique additions or modifications. <br /><br />I do not lose any sleep over these copies because I am not producing it to sell to someone else or earn anything. I am producing it for my own personal use. I know what you mean about pretentious clothing. My budget would never allow me to make one of these expensive purchases, but there is a lot of satisfaction knowing that I can own it if I like because I can make it myself. I probably would not take a photo in the dressing room, but I might save a sales flier/catalog image or web photo for a reference or make a quick sketch for later. Lorindahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16827815776566518090noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-72991553344103274502014-02-28T15:23:07.502-05:002014-02-28T15:23:07.502-05:00I love, love, love that you say you can't imag...I love, love, love that you say you can't imagine telling someone you bought an original when you are proud of your sewing skills. What a brilliant insight to this question! Particularly in light of the fact that so many designers produce paper patterns of their looks for precisely the purpose of us sewing them up. Well said!Deborahhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09975544178527897390noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-16345525105706122262014-02-28T15:20:37.773-05:002014-02-28T15:20:37.773-05:00Not surprisingly, there are a zillion replies to t...Not surprisingly, there are a zillion replies to this question, and I didn't read every one of them. I will say what I suspect many of them pointed out: an idea cannot be copyrighted; a design for a garment has no legal protection, only the pattern pieces used to sew it; and the fashion industry has a long history of taking another designer's ideas and reproducing them. All visual artists are ENCOURAGED to directly copy the work of the Masters, to train their technique and give them boundaries and a foundation from which to grow their own unique style--I see "knocking off" designs from shops, the runway, catalogs, or people watching in much the same way. Hone your chops, then refine your style. With the caveat that you be transparent and not try to pass off the design as original to you, admit when you have been inspired, and be honest with yourself about how much you are challenging your skills and ideas, I see zero ethical issues with making a shirt that is more or less identical to a shirt you walked past on the street. Go to town!Deborahhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09975544178527897390noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-22591064785308169662014-02-28T15:07:25.623-05:002014-02-28T15:07:25.623-05:00Have I copied designer garments? Let me count the...Have I copied designer garments? Let me count the ways... I started out by copying Ladybug and Villager skirts in the 60s during Jr. High. Only I used Liberty fabrics which my mother had given me, so my skirts were nicer. I graduated to copying a Carol Horn dress while in college. I had tried on the dress in a small shop, couldn't afford it, but did buy a marked down Carol Horn blouse. Lo and behold, Vogue had the dress pattern, Vogue 2951, which I proceeded to make twice in two different colorways in a lovely rayon challis printed with seashells, which I liked better than the fish print Horn used. I always received compliments on the dresses. Really, every time you sew a "Designer pattern" you are, in essence, copying. By the time I was working, Geoffrey Beene was my go to pattern source. I have made Vogue Beene pattern 1278 repeatedly. In mohair, it is an exact knockoff of Beene designs. I made Beene 1494 in Jasco wool doubleknit - looked exactly like the original. I always told people who asked that I made the dress; only other sewers wanted to know about the pattern etc.. I can't imagine telling people I had bought an original, when I am proud of my sewing skills. Often people who don't know me doubt I sewed the garment.<br /><br />When my daughters had proms, I drafted dresses from scratch, sometimes copying an Oscar dress, other times adapting an idea in my daughters head. The Michael Kors matte jersey gown I drafted from a picture was my proudest achievement. I put a lot of stabilizing elastic into it.<br /><br />I would like to point out that Butterick has patterns for many of the outfits worn by Michelle Obama, including an ensemble similar to the lemon colored Inauguration ensemble designed by Isabel Toledo, who once was under license to Vogue patterns. Why not go back to Ms. Toledo for the design? Butterick also came out with the Pippa Maid of Honor dress pretty quickly. I , for one, would love to see Vogue ink a deal with Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen! I would also love to be able to buy patterns for Vivienne Westwood suits. Vogue even has had a pattern which was a total knock-off of a Prada dress worn by Jennifer Aniston. <br /><br />I don't see any problem with copying the shirt, as long as you are not going into business with your copies. In my experience, your copy will automatically be different, constructed to your specifications and made to expressly fit you. Go for it!Arthurs Enkelinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12054594044404906466noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-65284862586914544352014-02-28T02:41:05.073-05:002014-02-28T02:41:05.073-05:00Guilty, I have shamelessly and willingly knocked o...Guilty, I have shamelessly and willingly knocked off designer fashions. Why? She paid me to do it!!! I temporarily worked in a prominent but local designer's atelier. Her modus operandi was to shop at Barnet's New York, return here with the really good stuff, and have it copied. I fondly remember the simple but beautifully elegant LBD by Lanvin, simple but a real bitch to pattern. A few days later the seamstress had sewn a finished sample and the pattern I had done had already been sent to the contractor for production. <br /><br />She'a great designer, she steals from the best! And I helped! Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-85873982615868918822014-02-27T15:50:09.634-05:002014-02-27T15:50:09.634-05:00Seems to me that 'designers' are just as g...Seems to me that 'designers' are just as guilty of copying themselves .....margueritedesignshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00219753464772441861noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-17367800752174679212014-02-27T12:05:19.363-05:002014-02-27T12:05:19.363-05:00Instead of charging twice the price to copy their ...Instead of charging twice the price to copy their design, wouldn't it be fair to send your client to purchase them from the independent designer? If they are just one or two people I bet they can work with your clients fabric. Will you double your price on a "big designer garment" because you're only making one?<br />I don't have a problem borrowing ideas, there's nothing much new under the sun. Just the logic of who you can and cannot copy. <br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-33851029513516216072014-02-27T09:59:49.304-05:002014-02-27T09:59:49.304-05:00Peter - years ago I made a skirt from some $2 a ya...Peter - years ago I made a skirt from some $2 a yard fabric that I found in the garment district that looked almost like the fabric used in an Ann Taylor Loft skirt. Of course the skirt wasn't made in plus sizes...but I made the skirt, wore it proudly and one day crossing Fifth Avenue I passed a woman who was wearing the original Ann Taylor skirt. It was a little surreal and she definitely did a double take but no I didn't feel guilty. As has been said repeatedly here, all designers work is knocked off, it's the nature of the fashion business. So sew away and but those ethical concerns away - you're fine!Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic)https://www.blogger.com/profile/02204627216540667980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-27918492953184017892014-02-27T09:09:09.743-05:002014-02-27T09:09:09.743-05:00I'm reading an Alexander McQueen bio. It's...I'm reading an Alexander McQueen bio. It's shocking how the fame doesn't translate into big bucks. So I'd say perhaps some of them need our compassion just as much as the local small name designer.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-30801598596300082302014-02-27T09:05:09.175-05:002014-02-27T09:05:09.175-05:001) Have you ever tried knocking off designer fashi...1) Have you ever tried knocking off designer fashion?<br />Yes. And CdG especially. I was a big fan back in the days. In fact, trying to recreate designer fashion that I can't afford and/or don't fit me well is probably the biggest reason I sew.<br /><br />2) Was your project/garment merely inspired by something you saw, or were you trying to make a carbon copy (or close)?<br />Some are inspirations. But many are attempts at copying. Sometimes it's impossible to copy exactly - complicated design, time-consuming details, custom fabrics, imperceptibly distinctive fit. One Gigli coat I manage to copy the applique embroidery by enlarging a closeup photo from Paper magazine. That coat took me a decade to finish! And it fitted my friend better than it fitted me. Damnit! }:-)<br /><br />3) Did you lose any sleep over it?<br />I do feel guilty to some extent. But as you said, it's not business that they'll have anyway because they're simply beyond my means. And those who can afford their designs - well I'd imagine many are fickle and won't worship your design like fanboys and fangirls do. (I find it sacrilegious that the famous & rich are expected to wear such work of art only once.) <br /><br />I did try to save up and buy the odd less expensive CdG items though. My first summer job earning was spent on a CdG scarf / shawl I've worn to death and am still wearing. <br /><br />If the designer would release sewing patterns I'd buy them - if they're signature looks or fit rather than designer stamp on bog standard designs. It doesn't even have to be current season - I'd happy sew and wear designs way past the sell-by date.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-55722382433681474442014-02-26T23:04:43.387-05:002014-02-26T23:04:43.387-05:00I'm SO glad!!!I'm SO glad!!!helenkohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16885523787103369661noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-34833332307896666722014-02-26T23:01:56.282-05:002014-02-26T23:01:56.282-05:00It doesn't speak well of my character I know, ...It doesn't speak well of my character I know, but I would *love* to see a picture of the outfit. <br /><br /> I'm no expert at couture (I *can* tell Wranglers from Levi's & that's about it....), so I wouldn't be able to tell who the designer was.....helenkohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16885523787103369661noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-78480796681704433172014-02-26T22:08:55.088-05:002014-02-26T22:08:55.088-05:00When we learned to trace off garments to make patt...When we learned to trace off garments to make patterns in a pattern drafting class, the instructor told us that it is a standard industry practice to do the same. Knockoffs are part of the game. It seemed sketchy to me in that case. But if we're doing it for ourselves, not for resale, I see nothing wrong with it. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14256649062891854854noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-10002766588809363602014-02-26T21:13:44.140-05:002014-02-26T21:13:44.140-05:00This post is totally relevant to a current situati...This post is totally relevant to a current situation. I sew for my living. I received a request for two flower girl dresses, accompanied by a link to a photo of a dress available from an independent designer. I'm no dummy. I don't think it would be right for me to knock them off as this is one or two people only trying to make a living. So I promptly quoted twice the price (which would be fair for my time since I"m not making a dozen at a time). That oughta take care of it. But if someone asked me to make a version of a big designer garment I'd definitely consider it. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-38619577011617887642014-02-26T21:02:16.765-05:002014-02-26T21:02:16.765-05:00You know I look at designer garments as ideas - mo...You know I look at designer garments as ideas - more like a place to start. Some of these designs are specifically designd to get the eye of the fashion magazine editors, who have (let's be honest here) seen just about everything there is to see, and seeing something outlandish is a way to get their attention and thus easy press for the designer's line of clothes. So this sort of design almost always needs to be tamed down, and then from there, it's hard to get the exact fabric but fun to vary it a little using what the designer has taken and worked and from that take the good parts and leave the bad on the cutting room floor. Don't feel guilty about it at all, as I've worn designer fabric done differently to parties where that designer was there. It's sort of fun cause they look like, "Gee I don't remember doing that in that fabric, but I guess I did," and then I start laughing and they start laughing. Truly creative people really don't care if you knock them off, cause they most likely have a gazillion other ideas that they are into by the time their designs get to the street. As a designer myself, seeing my things knocked off just confirms that it was a good design to begin with - imitation is the sincerest form of flattery or something like that.ClaireOKChttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05794385586295229490noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-21677321042309910072014-02-26T19:46:30.117-05:002014-02-26T19:46:30.117-05:00I heard somewhere that shops like Zara look at cur...I heard somewhere that shops like Zara look at current designs and do knock-offs.Jenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11447949592701882774noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-49888381008261634482014-02-26T19:42:34.472-05:002014-02-26T19:42:34.472-05:00As well as giving them a certain cachet if they la...As well as giving them a certain cachet if they labeled it as an authorized Chanel design and that allowed them to charge more than if it wasn't.Jenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11447949592701882774noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-49770477732220056352014-02-26T19:12:56.806-05:002014-02-26T19:12:56.806-05:00I bought three yards today!I bought three yards today!Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-14900759157649817432014-02-26T19:10:35.810-05:002014-02-26T19:10:35.810-05:00I love that fabric!
Last year I made two shirts fo...I love that fabric!<br />Last year I made two shirts for myself and two men's shirts in that same print. This year I wore one of my shirts to MAGIC in Las Vegas and got lots of compliments on the fabric. <br />Go for it, Peter. With your sewing skills it will look way better than the one you tried on in the store.<br />It's a standard mens shirt and commercially available fabric. How is that copying?<br />My question is... can you put a " vintage" tag in a reproduction print? <br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-11245894987279402392014-02-26T18:29:47.332-05:002014-02-26T18:29:47.332-05:00I walked into a John Varvatos shop in SOHO and was...I walked into a John Varvatos shop in SOHO and was carrying a Paron fabrics bag with some yardage. A sales person recognized it, and we walked around the store looking for design elements to steal. He was a budding designerAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14703096289021096490noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-64499883042257160322014-02-26T17:46:58.724-05:002014-02-26T17:46:58.724-05:00Peter, if you are still in doubt, try using a vari...Peter, if you are still in doubt, try using a variation of the fabric like this home sewing is easy part2 : Hawai http://www.etsy.com/listing/178673252/home-sewing-is-easy-part-2-hawaii-100?utm_medium=sem&utm_source=thefind&utm_campaign=experiment_2013_EnUs <br /><br />But in general I would never give it a second thought, being able to construct garments inspired by the runway looks is one of the main reasons I am learning to sew. And if you look at companies like H&M or Zara, the do it all the time. I just bought a T-shirt in the latter and it would totally blend in on Versace runway. So my advice is : just go ahead with it.<br /><br />TonyAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-67265415847109201952014-02-26T17:09:05.659-05:002014-02-26T17:09:05.659-05:00I have a different issue, an issue of practicality...I have a different issue, an issue of practicality.<br /><br />Copying the shirt is not unethical nor illegal. A shirt is a shirt and the fabric is not licensed nor proprietary. It does, however, make for a serious practical issue. It plain doesn't likely fit the total outfit.<br /><br />Let me use a bespoke shirt as an example (because I recently considered such). Here in NYC a bespoke shirt will go maybe $400 to $600 each, minimum order of three.<br /><br />Let's say I make an EXACT copy of the bespoke shirt. And then wear it with my $21 haircut, $50 jeans, $70 Timberline shoes, 1950's wrist watch, as I drive my 2001 motorcycle or sail my 1977 (small) sailboat. My fine, fine shirt looks like cavair on a hot dog. I just don't look like a guy who spends $2,000 on shirts a couple/three times a year.SeamsterEast (at) aol.comnoreply@blogger.com