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With all the celebrating this week, you might think I've neglected my Miyake coat project, Vogue 2038. Well I haven't.
Even a coat like this one, which doesn't call for a lot of interfacing or require much hand sewing, takes a long time to put together. There are seams to bind, topstitching to add just about everywhere, and changes to make to the original design. Yes, I've made a few changes -- minor, but significant.
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First, I decided not to include double welt pockets in front. I didn't want to cut into the knit fabric, however stable it may be, and since the coat is only half lined, I didn't want interfacing visible where the pocket was reinforced. I toyed with the idea of oversized patch pockets, but I didn't have enough fabric for that -- I literally have nothing but scraps left over.
Did I ever show you a close-up of this fabric? It has a surface texture reminiscent of old-fashioned carpet padding.
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An early stitching test. |
In the end, I decided to put the pockets in the seam between the front and side pieces, which is only slightly further back than the welt pockets would have been. Naturally, I had to reinforce the seams so they wouldn't stretch out, but I was able to do this invisibly; most of the important seams in this coat are reinforced with stay tape because I'm working with a knit.
The pocket back -- the side you see if you open the coat -- is made from my fashion fabric. The pocket lining is black cotton sateen.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4ozq0x79YEw/UuJufcofnQI/AAAAAAABg0I/Vp4Ef8WOS6c/s400/IMG_0065.jpg)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vevQdlLEUSA/UuJuiavQWaI/AAAAAAABg0o/EoiTZuHtdio/s400/IMG_0069.jpg)
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They came out really well and they're exactly where I'd want them on the coat.
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CqkKLSGt4Xk/UuJulUzJ9PI/AAAAAAABg1I/V2T7g4XQMEs/s400/IMG_0076.jpg)
The version of the coat I made has a narrow shawl collar (that doesn't fold over). Rather than use intefacing, I interlined the collar with the same wool melton I used for my front facings. It adds the right degree of strength, and the added thickness helps to highlight the topstitching.
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K4Y9DEton0k/UuLPUPKKRII/AAAAAAABg2U/mrWU689hNw0/s400/IMG_4363.jpg)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lSxnnLSBgxA/UuJujx16adI/AAAAAAABg04/R0ZJ_Rl1uHQ/s400/IMG_0072.jpg)
As I think I mentioned earlier, for the half lining I used a thin wool plaid remnant from my toggle coat project of a few years back.
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_WzTSlcrxxk/UuLPaxCC6XI/AAAAAAABg20/JamGTk2yKgM/s400/IMG_4386.jpg)
An ongoing issue is closures. I originally planned to purchase buttons (and have buttonholes made at Jonathan Embroidery), but now that the coat is nearly finished, and given how cape-like it drapes, buttons don't seem right. I have an oversized gunmetal gray snap that would work well enough and not stand out against the black and gray of the print. If I wanted, I could get a few more too.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-66Xvzmh_gn4/UuLPm3G9r4I/AAAAAAABg3o/lbz5Ph5ZtuU/s400/IMG_0097.jpg)
I may explore other options. I think less is more though.
When you see this coat next week, I think you'll agree that it's half Elton John and half Joan Crawford, but it is fabulous, which is not a word I generally use to describe the garments I sew for myself. Because it's so oversized, it's perfect to wear over a suit. Actually, I could wear it over five suits.
I still have hemming to do this weekend, but other than that, I'm pretty much done.
Readers, I do hope your sewing projects are going well, and that you didn't overindulge on pie yesterday. If you did, you may want to join Freddy and Willy on the treadmill...
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Have a great day, everybody!
Great project. Reminds me of the plaid reversible Kenzo coat I made in the mid 70's for some reason. Not terribly warm but dramatic.
ReplyDeleteCan not wait to see the pics! And, OMG, a doggy treadmill! For little doggies! How stinking cute!
ReplyDeletereally your dogs have a treadmill??? how awesome
ReplyDeletemy dogs have been successful at knocking me off but never capable of getting themselves into running position - grrrrr
The fabric looks a little bit scratchy. Is it? Or am I the only one who thinks so?
ReplyDeleteLooks like it's Jungle January in Chelsea! Can't wait to see the finished project!
ReplyDeleteMy worry with snaps is that they can put a lot of strain on the fabric. Would toggle closings (or something like that) work? Zipper?
ReplyDeleteI think you're right. Toggles are a possibility, if I could find some that were a little unusual.
DeletePlease do a column on fasteners. Making leather toggles, silk frogs, frogs with tassels, silk toggles with fancy buttons or beads for a button. You know, fun stuff.
DeleteMaking? How about shopping!
DeleteSome Horn toggles, as they do with Nordic sweaters?
ReplyDeleteThis is definitely going to be good. I have this pattern and never made it. I am looking forward to the reveal
ReplyDeleteNancy, I think you would look fabulous in this coat. (Make the Small -- it's ginormous!)
Deletei hope those dogs are generating electricity…coat is absolutely fab.
ReplyDeleteThose snaps have just given me an idea about something i am making. I am going to ditch the zip. Can't wait to see your coat? Anyone? Are Rowenta irons worth the money? I desperately need a new iron.
ReplyDeleteCan't speak for Rowentas, but they are on the expensive side. I love my Black & Decker Digital Advantage and it is not expensive. VERY reliable, no leaking.
Deletehttp://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-D2030-Auto-Off-Advantage/dp/B0006ZUHR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390752590&sr=8-1&keywords=black+and+decker+iron+digital+advantage
Thanks. Going to check them out on Amazon.com.
DeleteOver hear waiting for finished coat pictures? ... or am I overlooking them? I would like to make one.
ReplyDeleteThis coming Thursday (Jan. 30) is the big reveal.
DeleteWhen I saw my neighbours walking their dogs in the downpours we had here last week, I was happy to have a pet tortoise instead (she sleeps non-stop from November to March, smart girl).
ReplyDeleteBut I'll tell them about doggie treadmills, I'm pretty sure they'll be interested :)
And I'm eager to see your finished coat. I really hope you'll do that "who wears it best" feature with Cathy and you.